Month: April 2010

Blog Updated! Finally!

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Monday April 26th,  3:45 pm

Dave and Trudie on S/V Persephone left the harbor this morning and we have been reading about some other ports and anchorages along the southern coast of Puerto Rico.    We have been studying the Grib and Weather files and will follow them south tomorrow morning toward La Parguera where there is a phosphorescent bay about a mile from the anchorage.   We will not be there at the best time as the moon is coming on full and it is best seen on a new moon,  but it should still be interesting to explore.    In the meantime the Tradewinds have come up and we are sitting at anchor here in the harbor with a steady 20 knots of winds coming from the Southeast.    We along with Patty and John from S/V Ahinga and a couple of other captains and friend of Chuck here in the harbor had to come to the Rescue of Ronin again as it began dragging on the Delta anchor that Chuck had set.    We attempted to reset the Delta but without success.   We found a Danforth anchor aboard and swapped it out for the Delta and with the aid of Mighty Mouse moved Ronin closer to shore and set the anchor securely and dropped as much rode as we could to keep Ronin from going on unattended walkabout around the harbor again.     She is now anchored out about 500 yards from everyone else here in the harbor and we all will be keeping a close eye to make sure she stays put.    So here I am with seated in Galloway’s getting caught up and bringing you all up to date with the latest adventures.   Mike and I just finished lunch and will be headed back out to DD for a swim and maybe even a little nap….Consider yourselves Up To Date!!!

Updating the Blog at Galloway's

Boqueron April 25

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I spent this morning doing laundry in the Sputnik, our hand-crank washing machine, while Mike did a tune up on Mighty Mouse’s engine after his rescue yesterday.   We met up with Chuck, Lolin, and some other mutual friends, Patty and John from S/V Ahinga and Terry from Galloway’s Restaurant, at 5:00pm and drove up to Chucks home.  His house sits on a hillside lot surrounded by 300 acres of farmland.   The views are spectacular and we looked out over the verdant hills and farmland to Boqueron harbor and North to Puerto Real.    We watched the cattle grazing below his home and listened to the calls of numerous birds and watched a majestic peacock foraging under one of the many mango trees that abound here.    Lolin said that, occasionally they see monkeys.  There are 3 different species.   These are not indigenous to the island but escaped from a research facility, 15 -20 years ago and have established a colony.    Another couple of Chucks friends came by and so because Chuck has been away from home for the last 6 months, we were treated to an evening of conversation ripe with all the gossip of the local community.     We have been invited by Lolin to come see her farm outside of Mayaguez and participate in a Tango Lesson this week.    Our social calendar will definitely be full should we decide to stay in Boqueron for a few more days    However, the call of the sea as she whispers her promises of the beauty and mysteries  of other places is always there in our imaginations and encouraging us not to become too settled and entices us ever onward.

View from Chuck's Home
Up on the Roof!

Same Day Different Rescue!

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After such an busy morning, we had headed back to DD for Lunch.   Rain had begun to fall but even that did not deter the masses of people enjoying themselves on the beach.  The music continued to blare and in fact we noticed that there was a large gathering of scouts now massing on the shore.    It was then that we saw the coast guard boat filled with crew slowly cruising up and down the beach.  It appeared that they were keeping the jet skiers and other watercraft out of an area right between DD and the beach.    It was then we heard a helicopter approaching and a radio transmission that they were inbound.     We watched as a Red US Coast Guard Helicopter flew about 3 circles around DD.   (Later on of course we would hear from Persephone asking us what sort of trouble we had caused that required the dispatch of so many Coast Guard personnel) We could see someone in the water but it did not appear that anyone was in distress.    We realized this was an exercise for the benefit of the Scouting Jamboree.   The Helicopter hovered directly in front of us approximately 25 ft over the swimmer.  The wind and spray that was generated from the helicopters rotors was intense.    It was then that a Coast Guard Frogman jumped from the helicopter into the water along with the swimmer.    A rescue basket was lowered and the swimmer was loaded and pulled to up to safety.    A rescue sling was then lowered and the frogman was pulled out of the water and rejoined the rest of his crew aboard the Helicopter.   It was impressive to watch especially having a front row seat as we did.   The helicopter did one last circle around DD and a slow cruise up the beach.   The cheering of the scouts could be heard over the drone of its engine and we applauded as well.    As a fitting end to a day filled with rescues, we were treated that evening to a fireworks display and live music coming from the Park.    The rain had abated and we sat in our hammock on the deck under starry skies and enjoyed a wonderful end to a very eventful day.

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A Good Turn Daily!

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In keeping with the scouting tradition, Michael did his good deed of the day and came to the aid of a fellow boater, with Mighty Mouse once again pressed into service as a rescue boat.    A Single Hander by the name of Chuck had traveled from Samana in the DR headed home to Boqueron, Puerto Rico aboard his boat Ronin.  He had engine trouble and then his Autopilot went out.   The weather window for the Mona  Passage had been predicted as fairly calm but Chuck spent at least 5 hours in 30 -35 knot winds and big waves .  He finally made it just outside of Boqueron Harbor and droppned anchor at about 8:00pm the night before.    He was exhausted and so did not risk sailing alone through the reef and into the harbor.  He had called his girlfriend, Lolin in the morning to tell her he was back and to see if she could find someone to help tow him the last 3 miles to safety.    Lolin had come into the Restaurant where Michael and I were attempting to access the internet.   It was the only restaurant where she knew anyone.   Terry, a friend of Chucks, was working there and when she explained his situation he came over to our table and asked if we were on a boat and if we had a big enough engine to assist him.     Michael hopped into Mighty Mouse and stopped by DD to fuel up and gather some gear and a radio before heading out the 3.5 miles to where Ronin was anchored.   Lolin contacted Chuck via cell phone and told him help was on the way.   Mike made his way out to Ronin and tied Mighty Mouse along side.   The waves were about 3 ft and a Mike had to stay in the Dingy for much of the tow to keep Mighty Mouse under control.   He was finally able to tie off the engine once inside the harbor buoy and climb aboard Ronin.   Chuck was extremely grateful for the help.   I stayed with Lolin as we watched them come into the harbor and anchor.   A very wet Michael brought a weary but thankful Chuck and his large gray tabby cat,Thomas ashore to the welcoming arms of Lolin.   We said our goodbyes and made plans to meet up with Chuck and Lolin for dinner at Chucks home the next evening.

Ronin at Anchor in Boqueron Harbor...At Last!

Beautiful, Busy, Boqueron

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We had settled into relaxation mode, taking daily swims to cool off and walks around the town and even hanging our hammock up on Deck.  Boqueron is a lively place at night and on the weekends as it fills up with college kids and families that come to enjoy the atmosphere and the beach scene.   Music pours from doorways and windows of homes, bars and restaurants.  Colorful roadside vendors sell a variety of food including fresh oysters and clams on the halfshell, jewelry, t-shirts, and of course winning lottery numbers, while local artists display their wares and talents.   The 1/2 mile long beach and the park behind it fill with locals and even more music.  There are rows and rows of bungalows in the park and along the beach provided by the park service, it is somewhat like upscale camping.   Families bring their coolers filled with food and drink and stay for the entire weekend.     We were walking through the other day and watched as dozens and dozens of porta-toilets were strategically placed throughout the park and the grounds were marked off in a grid pattern.    We discovered that the beach and park would be even busier this weekend as there is a Regional Boy Scout Jamboree taking place here.    We watched and the Scouts began to arrive and set up their tents.   It brought back a lot of great memories of time spent with Corey and Sage at various scouting events.  That is until 4:45 this morning when they began to play reveille through loud speakers mounted on a truck that drove around the park grounds blaring what I can only describe as a Puerto Rican version of a marching band tune played continuously for 45 minutes and interspersed with sirens and other loud sounds to drive the scouts, and a few sailors, from their beds.    From the boat we can see the different troops in a rainbow of matching color t-Shirts participating in a variety of events and activities along the beach.

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Hospitality continues!

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After a great nights sleep and our wonderful encounter with Umberto we added the additional jugs of diesel to our tanks and motored on the additional 12 miles to Boqueron.   We dropped anchor and jumped overboard to cool off and swim.   The water was a chilly 87 degrees……Aaaaaahhhhh!      We took Mighty Mouse over to the local dingy dock and took a walk around the town.   An older local gentleman spoke to us in Spanish and when we asked him in Espanol to speak slower he immediately switched to English and told us it would begin raining soon.  When we asked when he said about 15 minutes.  He was right on the money and so we stood in the doorway of a local bar as the storm passed.    We continued our walk down the beach and around the town and covered about 4 miles.   It was a great walk (in flip flops, of course).    As we walked down the dingy dock we met Julio.  He was raised here in Puerto Rico but also lives in New Orleans.   He just recently retired as an engineer and was back here visiting family and trying to figure out where he wants to spend part of the year.   He told us about a great local place to eat and to try the Mufungo, a local dish made with mashed plantains and filled with seafood.   He said he would be going there with his sister, brother-in-law, & girlfriend.   We decided we would take his recommendation and headed over to D’Tapas Restaurante.   The Mufungo was delicious.   We saw Julio and he called us over to his table to meet his girlfriend , his family and his friend Edmundo.   We were invited to sit with them and immediately had a beer in our hand.  We enjoyed a number of drinks and some terrific conversation.  Julio’s girlfriend Margarita is retired Navy and had some great stories and a wonderful laugh.   Julio’s sister Maritza and her Husband Armando own an Oyster Bar about 45 minutes north of Boqueron in Isabela.  By the end of the evening we had been extended an invitation to visit them in Isabela to hear them sing.  They are not only the proprietors but also the live entertainment on Friday nights.  They also offered to put us up in their beachside bungalow.   Again….what wonderful hospitality!  We exchanged contact information and if we stay around through next week we may take them up on their offer.

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Mayaguez, Puerto Rico

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We dropped Mighty Mouse into the water and geared up to head into Mayaguez to clear customs.    We followed the instructions in our Guidebook that instructed us to clear customs at the government dock.  The government dock wanted to charge us $25.00 to tie our dingy up there so we opted to beach her about ½ mile away and walk to the office.    When we arrived we were told that this was a branch of the customs office but since we needed to clear through immigration as well we would need to go to the office about a mile down the road to do both.     This is also listed in our guidebook as the customs office.   Oh well,  we needed to be out walking anyway after being on the boat for 44 hours.   My only problem now is my inability to wear any other shoes besides flip flops.   I get blisters from all my other shoes now.    I was still nursing a blister from walking around Puerto Plata and the Waterfalls and now have a couple of new ones from my Chacos.   The bottoms of my feet however have become very tough, although it is not recommended to go without something on your feet especially in third world countries or anywhere with an open sewer system.    It took about an hour to clear customs and immigration as we found out a decal is now required to be able to clear back into any US territory via the automated telephone system for US Citizens arriving by private vessel.     We will purchase one online when we have internet again.     After clearing into Puerto Rico we stopped for a couple of beers at a roadside stand near the waterfront before making our way back to Mighty Mouse,  that we had locked to a tree on the beach.   We stopped at a small local grocery store on the way and found the prices to be very reasonable so we purchased a beef tenderloin, pork chops, chicken to restock the freezer and a few additional provisions were we low on and carried them back to our Dink.   We also found a bakery and picked up a hot fresh loaf of French bread.   The people here have been very welcoming and most are bilingual.   We were asked by the man in the bakery if we were the people from the boats that arrived in the harbor that morning?   We have only been in the country a few hours and we are already infamous.  Or perhaps we just stick out like a bunch of sore thumbs being the only gringos in this part of the neighborhood.      We spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing and enjoyed a wonderful steak dinner on the boat.    The next morning I rode with Mike and David back to the beach as both boats needed additional fuel before continuing on to Boqueron.     I dropped them on the beach and stayed with the Dingy.  We had seen a place to purchase diesel about ¼ mile from the beach and so the boys took off empty diesel jugs in hand.    I did not envy them the walk back, in the rapidly increasing heat and humidity.    They did not make it but about 50 steps from the beach when a local gentleman by the name of Umberto stopped his car and told them to get in.   He said he would take them to the gas station.   When Mike mentioned that he was heading to the one we had seen the day before Umberto said he knew someone there.  That station was for refueling large trucks and only sold in large quantities but after a mas rapido exchange in espanol between Umberto and his friend, he was able to talk them into selling Mike and David enough to fill their jugs and then gave them a ride back to the beach.     He showed them where he lived and explained that if they needed anything else just to knock on his door.  Talk about instant hospitality what a great welcome.   Thanks Umberto!

Just a little tired after the Crossing.
Mayaguez

Puerto Rico here we come

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Well we had planned on staying in the Domincan Republic for up to 3 weeks but as always when an opportunity for good travel presents itself we must take advantage.    We have a great weather window for making the normally difficult crossing of the infamous Mona Passage from the Dominican Republic to Puerto Rico.   The seas and winds are predicted to be fairly minimal and being that it will take us almost 48 hours straight to get there I welcome a calm passage.   We will be buddy boating with David and Trudy on SV Persephone as we travel south for as long as it works out that our plans coincide.    We spent Sunday doing Laundry and purchasing a few more fresh provisions for the journey.    Mike filled the extra 2 diesel jugs in the event we will need the additional fuel to make the crossing.  Our engine burns approx 1 gallon per hour and we have a 50 gallon tank but of course that we can burn more or less depending on the sea and wind conditions.     We planned on obtaining our despacho papers on Sunday and leaving first thing in the morning on Monday but of course, best laid plans…..etc.   It turns out Immigration is closed on Sundays and we had to check out with them before we could get a despacho from the commandante.   Monday morning we had an American breakfast special in town and the Upper Deck Restaurante and then walked back down to Immigration.   The officer we were told was not expected until 9:30am that day.     We finally completed our paperwork for a dispacho to Samana, DR in the event we would need to stop along the way due to unexpected weather or any boat problems.  Having the dispacho issued for Samana, DR would allow us to stop there without having to pay too much in additional fees to reenter the country.    After paying our dispatch fees of $20.00 and having a couple of soldiers accompany us back out to our boats for inspection we were able to leave around 11:00am.   It was nice having Persephone as a buddy boat, we would check periodically even when we lost sight of each other.    Mike was a little stressed when we ran into some current in light winds on a close reach and occasionally on the nose and it looked like we might not have enough fuel to make the crossing even with the extra 10 gallons.    We opted to change course slightly and check in at Mayaguez which shaved an additional 12 hours off our crossing.   It was a long but uneventful passage which was really appreciated by me after the last couple of rough overnight passages.  We ended up sailing and motor-sailing through comfortable seas and gentle swells, I was able to read on my watch the entire time (Books Read: A Thousand Splendid Suns & The Help).   After 44 hours we dropped anchor in Mayaguez Harbor, Puerto Rico around 7:00am.

Mona Passage Sunset

Las Cascadas – The Waterfalls

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Saturday morning dawned bright and beautiful, so we picked up David and Trudie on SV Persephone and headed out for the 27 Charcos or puddles, also known as las cascadas.   We walked downtown and hired a taxi for 300 pesos to drive us to  Imbert.   We got off and just as we paid the driver a bus was heading our way along the route we needed.   I flagged the pusher who was hanging out of the open bus door and he yelled at the driver to stop, which he did rather rapidly to the surprise of those already on the bus.   The pusher waved to us to hurry and so we ran to the bus and climbed aboard asking in our broken Spanish if the bus went by the Cascadas.   The bus driver and the pusher did not seem to understand but another gentleman who was riding the bus said that it did in fact go by the Waterfalls and that the driver would stop and let us off there.     We expressed our gratitude and paid the pusher 60 pesos each for the ride.  The gentleman who had assisted us in explaining our destination gave us the heads up and let us know when our stop was coming up.   We were let off at the side of the road next to a sign in espanol with an arrow that directed us to take a dirt road to the waterfalls.   We had no idea how far it was but that was part of the adventure.   The road led into a hilly area where we assumed that the waterfalls would be.  We walked about a 1/4 mile and found the well marked entrance to the park.  There are 3 prices for up to 7 waterfalls, 8-12, and 13-27.  We purchased our tour tickets for 12 of the 27 waterfalls (310 pesos each)  also plan on a customary tip of 100 pesos per person for your hardworking guides.   There are changing rooms for men and women where we put on our shortie wetsuits we had brought.   We were able to leave our backpacks with our extra clothes with the ranger at the ticket counter.    We were then outfitted with helmets and lifejackets and met our guides Kelvin and Franklin who would assist us in our journey up the waterfalls…..yes up!   We hiked about a ½ mile to falls and then proceeded with the assistance of Kelvin and Franklin to climb using ladders, ropes, and the brute strength of these young men to haul ourselves up twelve of these beautiful cascades.   The water was pretty clear even after the rains over the last few days and waterfalls were running strong.   I couldn’t wipe the smile off my face during the entire experience.    I kept turning around to Mike and saying, how the boys would love this.   The trip down was the easy part so long as heights do not bother you.  We were given the option of jumping into the pools or sliding down the falls and did both.  Mike even did a front flip into the final pool.   We made our way back to the park entrance and tipped Kelvin and Franklin for their hard work dragging our butts up those falls.   We changed into our clothes and toasted our adventure over a couple of beers at the Bar there at the Park entrance.   We walked back out to the main road and waited for about 20 minutes before a bus came along and took us back into Imbert.   We were planning of having Pizza but the Pizza place in Imbert was closed.   Just as well, as we found a local restaurant and had some great Dominican food, Roast Chicken, Braised Pork, Rice, Beans, Salad and of course, a couple more beers.  We stuffed ourselves for less than 500 pesos for all of us.   It was a great ending to a wonderful day.    We caught a taxi back to Imbert and dropped David and Trudie back at their boat.  They were real troopers, albeit, a bit sore, the next day after following Mike and Crystal on yet another crazy adventure.

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Exploring Luperon

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I had better get to writing these memories before they fade….. Luperon had a number of cooler days so we entertained ourselves by exploring locally by dingy and on foot.     We spent some time walking around town and picking up some local fare and sampling the delicacies of the local Bakery.   The people are beautiful and the children are happy and well looked after.    We cruised around in Mighty Mouse and tied up to the dock at the Puerto Blanco Yacht Club.   One of the yachts that was docked there was an Allied Mistress.   This is the type of boat Mike had previously used to cruise the Caribbean.    Ed and Brenda, the boats new owners, purchased the boat sight unseen and were attempting to make her ready to travel back to the US in just under 45 days.    As we proceeded up to the Yacht club we were met by 3 young puppies.   They were really cute so we sat with them a while and got our pet fix.   We were kept busy by participating in a few of the local get togethers around Luperon.   Thursday we had dinner at the Yacht Club and played a round of Triva with many of the ExPats and other Yachties who have made Luperon their home or extended stay.    Friday night is Karaoke at Puerto Blanco Marina.  After our nightmarish experience with karaoke on our Trip to Thailand a few years ago, we normally would avoid the place at all costs.   However, we were told by our friend Sean (Shaggy), that it was the happening night in Luperon and he and Camilla were closing Shaggys for the evening to attend.   So we found ourselves donning our raingear and braving the elements to enjoy an evening of conversation and music that varied from Disco to Meringue to Oldies.  The DJ seemed to be a local Icon and the crowd was a mix of locals, expats, and yachties.  Everyone seemed to have a great time and for the most part I did not have to break out the earplugs.

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