Month: August 2010

To Tobago………Today!

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August 17 – 25

That’s how it came about.   We had moved DD back around to Hog Island.  Michelle from S/V Daniel Storey and I went for a walk around Hog Island in the morning and we talked about the other hikes we would like to take around Grenada.   But by 10:00am plans had changed yet again.   We knew that there was a group of boats headed out that afternoon for Tobago.   Mike had just finished reinstalling the repaired alternator which was now working well.    Mike said to me, “Why don’t we head out for Tobago and on to Trinidad with the group leaving today?”  I expressed some concern about making the overnight crossing to Tobago without an Auto Helm.  Mike did not seem too concerned, it was not an insurmountable problem…..we would just take shorter watches and hand steer.    We contacted Don and Heather on s/v Asseance and asked them if they would mind if we tagged along.    They said we were welcome to come if we could stand hanging out with 2 Canadian Boats and a British Flagged Vessel.   I replied that it would not be a problem if they didn’t mind being seen with an US Flagged Vessel.      We gathered our paperwork and headed over to customs and immigration to check out of Grenada.   We also picked up a few groceries at the little convenience store at the Marina.   I would have liked to reprovision the boat a little better before leaving, but there was no time as the Armada was leaving at 4:00pm that day.   The journey down to Tobago and Trinidad is safer done in a group as the closer we get to Venezuela there is a higher incidence of Piracy reported.    We dashed about and hauled  Mighty Mouse onto the Davits.  Said some quick goodbyes to friends staying in Grenada weighed anchor along with s/v Asseance, s/v Quatico, and s/v Blue Beyond.   Dancing Dolphin is the only Catamaran but they didn’t hold that against us.   We had an uneventful motor sail across to Tobago and arrived in Man O War Bay near Charlottesville at around 9:00am.   Tobago is a nature lovers gem.   It is what one might imagine looking at photos of a tropical paradise.   The verdant rainforest covered hills spill steeply down to the deep water bay rimmed by gold sand beaches and palm trees that surround the sleepy fishing village of Charlottesville.    Colorful Open skiffs dot the natural harbor each sporting either mounds of nets for seine fishing or pairs of bamboo outriggers, which look like the feelers of the lobster the fisherman occasionally return with in addition to their tuna and snapper.     The small fishing fleet has priority and the yachts must stay well clear and not anchor too close to the beach, so as not to interrupt their livelihood.   We tucked into Pirate bay on the northwest corner of Man O War Harbor.    We caught a couple of hours sleep before checking in with customs and immigration.   The customs agent told us we would have to pay an overtime fine because we had entered Tobago waters before office hours.   We asked him how far out the waters extended so we could estimate the time we came into them.   He then berated us for not checking in immediately upon arrival into the bay.   We explained that we had been up all night hand steering as we did not have a functional auto helm and so we had slept for a bit before checking in.   He then looked at us sternly and began chastising us for sleeping and not respecting the laws of Tobago.   We should have known something was up when he tried to get the puzzled looking immigration officer to confirm the overtime fees.   He had kept a straight face the whole time and when we finally began apologizing for sleeping and not knowing where the Tobago waters line was……he smiled and said he was just pulling our leg.   We paid the usual check in fees and promised him we would bring him a present of some rotten fish for pulling off the prank so successfully.   Which is not hard to do with us sleep deprived gullible Americans.     We have spent the last week snorkeling  the coral reefs around the edge of the bay, fishing, & hiking.   One day, we took a scenic, air conditioned bus ride to the other end of Tobago to the main town of Scarborough where we picked up a few fresh fruits and walked around the botanic gardens in the center of town located right next to the next to the noisy smelly power plant.   Who is their town planner?    There is not much here in Tobago in the way of a grocery stores or fresh veggies most of what is sold is offered in small stalls or storefronts and offer a random sampling of commonly used consumer goods.   We are trying to get creative with the last of our frozen goods and canned provisions.   What Tobago lacks in conveniences, it more than makes up for with its abundance of natural beauty.   We have marveled at the diversity of flora, over 220 nesting species of birds, 16 species of bats, and the wonders of a rainforest to walk about in.    There seems to be mixed feelings in regards to tourists visiting Charlotteville, as the local population would like to keep their quiet village lifestyle intact.   We have been met with both warm receptions and quiet indifference in our wanderings around the town.   We have enjoyed the camaraderie of our traveling companions Rob & Cathy on Quatico, Mark & Max on Blue Beyond, and Don & Heather on Asseance as well as getting to know a number of other cruisers who are enjoying the exotic and isolated beauty of this wonderful Island.   We are awakened in the mornings by the sound of hundreds of orange winged parrots and Chachalacas screeching as they fly in and over the forest.   Frigates, Pelicans and other seabirds fish the waters around the boat.  Schools of small fry hover in the shadow of our boat and the other day we watched as the waters around the boat boiled where schools of larger fish were forcing the fry against the hulls and enjoying a fine meal.   I could literally reach down and scoop handfuls of silvery fry from the surface of the water.   Iridescent butterflies in a variety of colors flutter out over the water and across our bow to bless our boat daily.    We have had a pretty even mix of sunny and rainy days.  Most of the showers that pass through do not stay long and give us all a welcome relief from the heat.     Walking through the streets of Charlotteville finds people enjoying the beach, or gathered on front porches and sharing shady areas with the local dogs.  Chickens have free reign to wander the streets and a large flock can always be found upon crossing the local football field enroute to the well used (air conditioned) local library where we can access free WiFi.   Life here is definitely slower paced, farming is subsistence based.  Local vendors sell homemade Ice Cream….sherbet.  We purchased a CD of music composed and recorded by a local calipso musician,  Squeezy, who was happy to sell us some grapefruits as well.      We watched a group of dolphins come into the bay the other morning to play and fish.  We continue to appreciate the numerous beautiful sunsets and sunrises.   I still have to pinch myself some days.

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Monday Night Mas

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Monday evening the DJ Trucks cranked up the music and energy to extreme levels and again took to the the streets of St. George around the Lagoon and Carenage  for the Monday Night Mas .  We could hear these Trucks all day even on our boat anchored outside the harbor  so by the middle of the day we too could sing along with most of tunes.   This Mas is comprised of different bands of revelers who have purchase packages to participate in this unique nighttime parade.   Packages can be purchased from local business sponsors, by anyone for about $75 EC.   Packages include,  a commemorative cup or drink container, all you can drink beer and rum from the bands bar truck that drives along with each group, a glowing wand or saber as well as a Band T-Shirt and an Illuminated Hat and other glowing accessories.     The DJ’s riding atop the trucks keep the energy of the slow moving throng up by singing along  and shouting directions to syncronize the mass of  light saber waving revelers.   It was a spectacle that was difficult to capture on film.   A number of cruisers purchased packages to participate in this glowing high energy Night Mas.    There was a bit of a damper put on the evening for some of these participating cruisers when they discovered they had become victims of a ring of professional pickpockets.  One of the cruisers even had the side of his pocket that he had his hand over, cut with a razorblade to gain access.  They were lucky to have come away with only the loss of a small camera, a phone, and a little cash.   The police and the participating business that sponsored the MNM were very professional and went out of their way to see that the lost items were reported and some were even replaced at a substantial discount.   The police later that night busted what turned out to be a number of the pickpockets and found them to be affiliated with a professional ring out of Guyana that follows the Carnival circuit around the Caribbean.   Everyone who heard about the thefts was appalled,saddened, and primarily concerned that the incident not reflect badly on warm and caring reputation of the Grenadian People.   After a day that started at 3:30am, the evening ended for us around 11:00pm as we drifted off to sleep with the memory of the vivid colors of everything from body paint, to feathers, to light sabers, the sounds of the Songs Mo Mas and Tornado ringing in our ears, and a little buzz from spectacle of the day topped with a few beers and rum.

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Pageant Mas

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After a nap we returned to town around 1:00pm to watch the next Mas.  The Pageant Mas reminded me a bit more of a high energy home town parade.  It again involved the massive sound systems of the DJ Trucks playing a mix of the same 4 songs, followed by extravagantly costumed groups singing and dancing and representing different themes.   This parade is also open to anyone who would like to purchase a costume and join in with one of the bands.  A number of cruisers, who were staying at the Port Louis Marina, did just that.   We walked the parade route and took quite a few pictures before settling down at a spot near one of the judges’ stations along the route.  We were dazzled by the creativity and vibrant colors of the costumes some of which are quite elaborate.    Everyone including small children walks the entire parade route in the same rhythmic small steps stopping to shake, shimmy, and gyrate along the way.    Some of the women did this all in high heels, Yikes!   The atmosphere was festive, the people beautiful, and the entire  performance was repeated again the following day for the final judging, in even higher heat,  with many of the previous days’ high heeled beauties now sporting tennis shoes.   I wondered how long they could hold out!

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Jouvert Mas

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On Sunday morning we stocked up on a few groceries as stores all shut down for the last 2 days of Carnival.   Ester, the clerk at Foodland, asked us if we would be attending Mas……now to me I did not think Carnival was affiliated with the Catholic Faith so I asked her what it was.   Mas as it turns out are parades and street parties that take place during Carnival, Grenada’s summer festival.    Flatbed trucks are outfitted with enormous sound systems, followed by roving bands of people singing and gyrating to thunderous rhythms.  Each band is sponsored by different local businesses.   We were informed that the first of the Mas Parades began at 5:00am on Monday morning.   We set the alarm for 3:30am and put on some old clothes.   We joined others in the streets some of who it was obvious had been up all night.  We grabbed a couple of beers and downed a shot of rum.   This has to go on record as the earliest in the day I have ever started drinking!   The DJ trucks were keying up the music followed by pickups carrying large vats of different color body paint.  Each band of Jab Jabs was represented by a different color.   The Jab Jabs (or devils) main goal is to catch unsuspecting persons and smear them with paint, hence the old clothes, or in some cases used motor oil…..we tried to avoid those guys, we were only partially successful.   The crowds were an amazing, sometimes hilarious mix of party goers all enjoying themselves and happily mugging for the camera.   After the first couple of smears of paint, I took the old point and shoot into the crowd and tried to capture some of the spirit of this high energy event.    After enjoying this Halloween Rave on Steroids the sun peaked over the island and the end of the parade passed us by.  We made our way back to DD for a swim and a scrub with the loofa to erase from our bodies but not our memories the experience of this unique introduction to Carnival Mas.

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Back for Carnival

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We reluctantly left our new friends Ellen and Jim from s/v Boldly Go….sitting on the hard at the Carriacou boat yard to do repaint the bottom of their boat and do all those out of the water maintenance issues.  We feel for them Yuck!  But we had to return to Grenada after all….Carnival was happening.   We made our way down the leeward coast of Grenada and anchored just outside of St. George where we will stay for the duration of Carnival.   We contacted the Al Bernadine and dropped off our Alternator for repair, yet again, and then called and checked on the status of our Auto Helm.   Herve the Service Tech here on Grenada says he is expecting the parts by the end of the month at the latest but is hoping they will arrive by next week.  There are a number of events that take place over the days leading up to Carninval, a beauty contest, as well as Soca, Calypso, and Pan competions.  We attended Pantastic, the Steel Pan Competion on Saturday Night and enjoyed a number of talented bands comprised of both young and old as well as Vocals by The Black Wizard a local popular musician.

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A Carriacou Birthday

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While we were in Carriacou we met and were befriended by James T and his wife Ellen…..capitan & crew of the S/V Boldly Go (Trekkies?).   We spent quite a few evenings getting to know each other and found out that Ellen and I both grew up in Orange County, CA.   She went to Corona del Mar HS and I to Tustin High.   Our fathers both worked for the same company, Autonetics that became North American Rockwell and spent a lot of our teen years along the beaches of Newport and Corona del Mar.   Small world.      We also met JT and Jayson, at a local birthday celebration.   They are father and his young son who had sailed over from Trinidad aboard S/V Stillawa to enjoy the regatta.   They had lost their dog a couple of days before and everyone had been on the lookout for her.  She turned up that day and they were as delighted to have her back and she was to be back.   I spent a little time showing Jayson the hand slapping game of Over the Top and how to Thumb Wrestle and we became good friends.   The Birthday celebration was in honor of, Cigarette…..yes that is a nickname.   Owner along with his son, of the Lambi Queen Restaurant and Bar.   There was food and drink in abundance and everyone was having a great time.   We enjoyed the music provided by a local DJ and after singing the traditional birthday song, it was time to……as they like to say,   Stick the Cake.    This is a fun local tradition of raising money to help pay for the party.    It is something like a cross between the dating game and a wedding cake cutting ceremony.   People pay money to nominate who will have the honor of Sticking the Cake.  That person has to stand in front of the cake and other people then pay to nominate who they think would be the best match to share the honor as well as the first bite of cake and a kiss.   There were a number of changes to both the female and male participants over the course of about 20 minutes along with much laughter and banter back and forth.   At one point a gentleman teasingly nominated a very young teen girl who seemed more mortified than delighted to be nominated for the honor.    In the end the Birthday Boy and his Ex-wife were left standing together to Stick the Cake.   Amidst howls of laughter, they shared a bite of cake but the kiss was conspicuously absent .

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Carriacou Regatta

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July  27 – August 6

Back to Carriacou for the Regatta, We buddy boated back up to Carriacou along with our friend Laurel who Singlehands her Prout Catamaran s/v  Here Today.   She is a Grandmother who has sailed most of her life and had her own sailing school.   She has graciously shared with us her friendship and is teaching me more of the terminology and technical aspects of sailing.   Laurel was up and out of the harbor even before we got our dingy raised.   We finally weighed anchor and headed back north the 35 miles to Tyrrell Bay.     On the trip north we discovered that one of our newly repaired alternators is still malfunctioning.   We’ll have to take it back to the repair shop when we return to Grenada.  Ughhh!……I need a sunset!    We had previously anchored in Tyrrell Bay on our way to Grenada and had promised John and Melody, S/V Millennium II, we would return and volunteer to help with the regatta events to raise money for the Carriacou Childrens Education Fund.   The efforts of s/v Millennium II and other volunteers have raised about 16,000 dollars this year and have raised 124,500.00 over the course of the last 10 years.  We spent time enjoying the Cruisers BBQ, the Mexican Train Domino tournament and the not-so-silent Auction and Rummage Sale.   It was an honor to be asked to participate as well as a whole lot of fun.   We also spent a couple of days enjoying the plethora of local events that Carriacou Regatta is so well known for.    Cruisers and Locals alike participate in numerous racing events.  Yacht races include a course race as well as an around the Island race.   There are also many classes of open boat races that get very competitive.  Most of the open boats are not very large and hold a crew of 3 to 8.  Racers come from all over and sail from their respective Islands to Carriacou to compete.   The onshore events include not only the well known, Egg & Spoon race, Balloon Shaving, and beer drinking competitions but also the lesser known but no less humorous events such as,  Donkey Races, an eating event called Buns & Coke, and the most popular event…….The Greeeeassssy Pole.    Don’t worry I too, had to ask a local, somewhat hesitantly, what this event entailed.     It is one of the regatta’s oldest events and has been a favorite of the crowds for over 45 years.    A long pole is greased and suspended out over the water at an angle.  At the end of the pole the prize awaits anyone who can make it to the end and grab hold of it before falling in the water.   I was told they used to hang a bottle of rum from the end but today it was a couple of bottles of Coke.    It was a wonderful time even with the intermittent rain showers (which did little to deter the racers).   The Carriacou people are warm and welcoming and laughter abounds.    I also saw my 1st Green Flash from the Anchorage here on Carriacou.   A stellar week to say the least.

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Hike to Mt Qua Qua & Grand Etang Lake

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July 26th, 2010

We joined a group of cruisers including many of  whom  are anchored in Mt. Hartman Bay on a hike up to Mt Qua Qua.   We took a bus up into the rainforest and got off at the trailhead near Monkey Point named for the Mona Monkeys who frequent the area in hopes of a handout.    We gathered at a picnic table to take a few photos in the event we lost track of any of our group…..but really, it’s an Island,    how far can you go if you get lost?   The trail started out very nicely maintained but due to the recent and continuing rains that have graced the Island, soon became quite the mud fest.    We wandered along becoming a little taller with each step as the mud accumulated on the soles of our shoes.  This I am certain is what caused the change in my center of gravity thus disrupting my amazing balance and causing me to end up on my butt on a number of occasions.   As evidenced by the back side of my shorts after a few slips and slides.     We traversed along the shore of Grand Etang Lake which is situated inside of a volcanic crater.   The trail in some spots reminded me of knife ridge back in Colorado as it was no more that 2 ft wide in places and dropped off steeply on both sides of the trail that followed the ridgeline.   The views as always were spectacular.     Some of us were looking forward to taking the trail all the way to Concord falls, a 10 mile hike but the only information we had was to take a left at the fork in the Mt. Qua Qua trail.   When we got to the fork, that section of trail was not maintained and had quite a lot of razor grass and wait-a-bit scrub that constantly grabbed at our bare arms, legs and clothing.     The combination of the muddy slippery conditions, and additional forks that were not in the description, convinced us to hike back out on the Mt. Qua Qua trail.    We stopped at Grand Etang Lake and enjoyed our lunch.   We headed back out to the trailhead and got to see the Monkeys just before catching a bus.     I have been playing with the little handheld GPS unit that Mike has had for a few years but never used.   After cleaning it up I downloaded a map of Grenada sent to me by my friend Rebecca on S/V Passport and entered the coordinates  for a Virtual Geocache that was listed near where we were going to hike.    The Dock at Grand Etang Lake, next to where we had lunch, was where the coordinates finally led me, so I successfully located my 1st Geocache.   There are 3 other traditional Geocaches here on the Island so I may take some additional side trips to see if I can locate any of them.

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Baking Bread

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I have finally begun to get the hang of baking in the BBQ.   As you may or may not know I do not have an oven on the boat but I was assured by the previous owner that the Galley Mate BBQ that came with our boat can be used to bake.   I am using a no kneed wet dough recipe that I have taken from a book I have called Artisan Bread in 5 minutes a day.   The secret is that you prepare the dough ahead of time and keep it in the refrigerator for use, then it only takes the 5 minutes to prepare it for baking.  The loaves turn out wonderful and rival what we were able to get in Martinique at the French bakeries.   I have also baked cookies and brownies and will attempt an Angel Food Cake for Michael soon and maybe even a pie.   It has given me a new challenge though and I have been on the lookout for a larger baking stone and a pizza peel, neither of which I have been able to locate yet.   We don’t realize how spoiled we are in the US where you can get whatever supplies and equipment you need quickly and inexpensively.     Maybe I’ll find them when we get toTrinidad.

Fixing Stuff

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As always we continue in the definition of Cruising,  fixing our boat in beautiful and exotic locations.    We are having our second alternator repaired and Michael has reinstalled our non functional Autohelm so that the Authorized Raymarine Service Rep can see for himself that it is installed correctly and still not working.    The Raymarine service Rep, Herve, was an extremely nice French speaking young man, who’s English was prettly good except when trying to communicate with the Raymarine warrenty department maintenance technician with a southern accent via a sketchy cell phone connection in the US.  After about an hour of troubleshooting our Auto Helm, the conversation was just coming to a close without a definitive resolution to our problem.   Mike finally got on the phone with the US Raymarine Technician and explained to him that we had downloaded the service manual for the Autohelm and had followed the procedure and determined that the motor was bad.    After talking with Mike for 5 minutes the US technician agreed and told Herve, they would more than likely send down a new motor as a replacement.   We are now awaiting the parts and hope they will arrive soon at which time we will remove the Auto helm, again, and deliver it to Herve to repair.    At times so many continuing repairs can get us a bit down……but when that happens we sit on the bow with a cool drink and watch a beautiful sunset while gentle breezes carry away our burdens, and remember how lucky we really are to be living this lifestyle.