Month: July 2010

Off to an Oil Down!

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July 17, 2010

Oil Down?  What’s an Oil Down?  Well it is a local gathering that operates on the same principal as the story of Stone Soup.  Friends and Neighbors all get together everyone bringing something and layer a large pot with locally grown Vegetables and Meat cooked in spiced coconut milk.    Everyone works together to prepare the ingredients and it is all assembled and cooked over an open fire.   Margie from S/V Encantada organized the cruisers and got enough interest to hire Cutty from Cutty’s Taxi and Tours to put one on.   He gets his friends and neighbors together who do most of the preparation of the meat and veggies.  Although they toned it down for the cruisers and left out the chicken feet and beaks, and the pigs tails.   For the cruisers part we all bring either an appetizer or a dessert and then help with grating coconut, cutting the last of the veggies, and make dumplings.     I have been in baking mode this week and have gotten much better at using my BBQ ( I do not have an oven).    For my contribution, I made spicy Caribbean Curry Patties which looked much like miniature empanadas.    They were a big hit while we were waiting for the Oil Down to Cook.  Cutty also takes the guests up to his home where he picks fresh fruits out of his yard for everyone to take home.    We were graced with Pineapple, Mango, French Cashew Fruit, and Avocados.   His neighbors also get an opportunity to sell beer and other drinks to generate income as well as the cruisers each paying for their meal and taxi ride.   Everyone had a wonderful time and the locals really enjoyed the unusual variety of delicacies and treats brought by the cruisers.    A great time was had by all.

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Seven Sisters Falls

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July 14th, 2010

Mike and I joined Dave and Michelle from S/V DaniellStorey on a walk to the Seven Sisters falls.   We caught the bus from Woburn into the Main Terminal and then on up into the mountains squealing around corners  to Grand Etang.   The bus let us out at a place called Monkey Point in Grand Etang but we were not lucky enough to see any.   Mona Monkeys were introduced to Grenada from Africa.   We walked down the road about ½ mile to the trailhead to the Falls.    We paid our fee to cross private land and then picked up a walking stick and headed down the trail.   We crossed a working farm where a wide variety of fruits and veggies were being grown including Nutmeg, Mango, starfruit, Avocado, Pumpkin, Melons, Long Beans, and many others crops we did not recognize.    The trail was a little slick from the recent rains but not too bad.  The walking sticks were very helpful.    Michelle had brought some samples of some seeds she was hoping to collect and asked the local who was collecting the fees if any of them were found along this trail.   The seeds , shells and sea glass she has found in her travels she incorporates with beads to make some beautiful jewelry.  http://web.me.com/daniellstorey/Seed_and_Sea_Caribbean_Jewelry/Welcome.html As we were walking along she spotted an oblong pod on the ground and suddenly the treasure hunt was on.   We had found what are referred to as Donkey Eye Seeds.   I helped her collect a nice bag full before continuing on our hike.   After taking some photos, Dave and Mike meandered further down the trail where we met up with them when we finally exhausted our search efforts.   We made our way to the Lower falls of the Seven Sisters and changed into our swimsuits to take a cooling plunge after our hike.    We enjoyed the lunch we had brought with us and were soon joined by a few others and their guide Cliffon Castle.   Cliffon is certified to be able to dive from the top of the falls and gave us a great show by doing a back flip from the top of the falls into the pool below.    It was amazing to watch.    After relaxing at the falls for a while we made our way back, stopping under a Nutmeg tree as we waited for a small rain shower to pass.  We met a local Rasta Farmer walking the road carrying a bunch of bananas on his head.   I found and photographed a Torch Lily also called a Porcelain Rose.  Our hike concluded back at the trailhead where we sat and talked with Cliffon and a couple of other locals about the area and showed them the footage we had taken at the falls.   I will try to post it to You Tube when I have the bandwidth.   It was a wonderful day in the hills of Grenada and we look forward to many more hikes and adventures with the Crew of DaniellStorey.

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An E Ticket

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I know, I know,  I’m dating myself with this reference but for those of you who are youngsters or who never got to go to Disneyland back in the 60’s……an E Ticket predates the all inclusive pass and refers to the ticket that would get you on the wilder rides in the Park.   Public Transportation on Grenada is always an E-Ticket Ride.  The public bus system of Grenada consists of Vans that are designed to seat 12 comfortably.   On any given day though they pack around 16 to 20 depending on the size of the people and the Items they are carrying.   Each Van has been modified by its owner to accommodate additional passengers with anything from a board spanning the gap between the seats with or without a cushion to a fancy little folding seat that folds down into the Aisle to hold the extra people.    We have ridden often enough now to know which seats are better than others.   Closer to the front behind the Driver is always good as you don’t have to exit the Van to let the passengers sitting behind you out at their requested stops.     Next to a functional opening window is always an added benefit.    Busses never leave the main terminal until full.   Timing is essential when getting into a Bus at the main terminal to avoid having to sit for an extended amount of time in an overstuffed, non air-conditioned van while they wait to try and squeeze a few more passengers on before heading out on their routes.   When the driver tells you we will be waiting for one more before leaving, he means the equivalent of one US person.   1 US = 2.5 Grenada whether you are referring to the exchange rate for money or people.    I believe many of the bus drivers Idolize Nascar Driver Lewis Hamilton, who is from Grenada, and try to emulate him.   There are 3 speeds,  fast, faster, and breaking hard to stop.    I also think there is a method to this madness of packing the busses so full……It has to do with physics and lessening dramatic shifts in weight .  We have even heard tell of drivers repositioning passengers to better balance their Vans.   Each driver knows his Van and it is best not to argue if you are asked to change seats, we have been aboard a couple of Vans that I swore were on 2 wheels as we squealed around hairpin turns.     We are beginning to recognize our favorite busses by the sound of their horns, which ones play better music during the ride to town, and the few who are not LH wannabees.    We always feel fortunate when we catch one of these.    Otherwise, we just close our eyes tight, make our peace with God and hang on for the duration of the Ride! YeeeeeeeHaaaaaaaa!

A Repair trip & tour in Gouyave

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Michael and I joined Jim (S/V Evergreen) who showed us which buses to catch to take one of our alternators up to Gouyave.    Gouyave is a fishing village on the Northwest side of the Island.    The bus ride was a scenic trip along the west coast that wove along a ridge overlooking small bays and nooks of houses and smaller villages.   I will elaborate in another post to give you a more detailed description of a normal public bus ride in Grenada as it warrants an entry all its own.   We arrived in Gouyave and found Al Bernadine’s Shop.   Every nook and table was covered with either spare parts, or stacks of catalogs.   It was difficult to conceive how anyone could find anything.    Jim had told us about Al and couldn’t say enough good things about him.   Jim was picking up a Starter that Al had machined to make the replacement parts that were not quite the right size work like a dream.   He took our alternator and placed in on what appeared to be an antiquated machine and looked at the simple set of dials and meters and told us that what was causing our overcharging problem was just a loose connection.    He said it would not take him long to fix, so we went for a walk while he worked his magic.  As we walked along the main road the intoxicating smell of Nutmeg drew us to one of the Islands Nutmeg processing centers is located in Gouyave.    Mike and I took a quick 15 minute tour of the facility.   The nutmeg is brought in by the farmers who separate fruit and the Mace(red lacy covering) from the nutmeg.   It is then spread on drying racks and once dry will keep up to 10 years if not hulled, once hulled it will keep up to 3 years.     From the drying racks it is hulled and then sorted by hand and bagged for shipment.    We stopped for a bite to eat at a location where we saw many of the locals enjoying lunch.   The Roti was delicious and the beer was ice cold.   We made our way back to Al’s shop and picked up our now working Alternator,  we told him we would have him repair our spare alternator as well and when we asked him what we owed him he told us we could settle up with him after he fixed the other one.   The trust and friendly attitude of Al is not uncommon to many of the locals on the Island and is delightful to encounter.     He has our gratitude, our business and a glowing recommendation from us to anyone with a starter or alternator issue.

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A walk with the Girls

bearcruzer

July 11, 2010

Michelle (S/V Daniellstorey), Terry (S/V Sea Otter) , Wendy (S/V Julianna II), and I took a walk around the Woburn Loop.  We wouldn’t normally walk the road during the week but being early on a Sunday morning we figured we were safe enough.    As much as I enjoy the (little) walks with Michael it is fun to be able to walk and talk with women.   Every woman and every story is so different.   We made our way up into the hills and stopped at a local fruit and vegetable stand where Francis sold us bananas.    I was impressed by the Low Tech but extremely effective soccer field maintenance crew who were busy trimming the grass and fertilizing to keep the field in tip top ready to play condition.   We had a wonderful time and before we knew it we were back where we started.  When we rode the same route on the local bus and pointed out, to our husbands, where we had walked…..we were amazed at how far we had gone.   The way never seems far when walking beside new friends.   Although Dave (S/V Daniellstorey)  credits our gabbing for the time passing so quickly.

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A Day with the Kids

bearcruzer

July 10th

Today was the last day that the Mt. Airy Reading Program of was meeting before the local school children go on summer break.     A number of cruisers volunteer their time on Saturday mornings to help some of these kids improve their reading, spelling and math.   We did not arrive in Grenada in time to help last week but were able to volunteer this week.  Many come from single parent, struggling families.   The woman who directs the tutoring program is a caring, no nonsense person who you can see really wants these kids to succeed and make a better life for themselves via a healthy lifestyle and a good education.   It turned out that because it was the last meeting of this school year, it was just a little bit of group reading and spelling, the kids watched a video of a recent field trip and then lots of games, foot races, football (soccer), and fun for everyone!   We enjoyed spending time with these amazing young people.     I turned a couple of girls loose with my point and shoot camera.   Many of the pictures are theirs.     I taught 9 year old Leona how to play checkers.  I was told she was very bright and true to form, she soon had me backed into a corner, 3 kings to my 1 and won the game.   I also joined in when it was time for the girl’s foot races.   I don’t think the kids have had any of the visiting adults join them in their races as they were all laughing and yelling and encouraging  me all the way to the finish line.  I even got a big laugh and a hug from the Program Director herself.   That or maybe I just looked the fool running around with the kids, either way we had a terrific time playing and getting to know the children.   We look forward to seeing them all again in September!

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Grenada

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July 3rd – July 9th

We have made it to Grenada.  This will be where we will spend much of the hurricane season.    We are anchored on the west side of Hog Island just off a little beach with a very rustic Tiki bar called Rogers’ Beach Bar.    We have been here now for a week and have met a wonderful community of cruisers from all over the world.   Grenada reminds me a little of Georgetown in the Bahamas.   There are lots of creative individuals who offer a variety of classes from Watercolor to jewelry making. There are also plenty of activities such as:  Potlucks, Movie Night,  Book & DVD Swaps, Shopping Trips, Wine Tasting, and Island Tours, that are organized by and for the cruisers on a regular basis.  There is a Cruisers Net that is broadcast on VHF Ch 68 M-Sat mornings at 7:30 am.  It’s provides general information, weather reports, businesses announcements,  addresses problems and questions, community events, and allows people to trade or sell their “Treasures of the Bilge”.   Clarks Court Marina, near Hog Island, has quite a few amenities available to cruisers and also offers a number of opportunities for the cruising community to get together, however their costs are a bit on the high side.   We attended a 4th of July BBQ there.   We have been busy orienting ourselves with the local back roads, i.e. getting lost.  We walked from Martins Marina in Hartman Bay over to Prickly Bay as the waves and currents were too rough to dingy over.  We attempted to follow the verbal instructions given to us by the security guard, which ended with his saying “You can’t miss it!”, but as always we confused our lefts and rights and our little walk turned into a major hike.   We covered a good 8 miles.  Half of which I carried a 20lb alternator in my backpack that we were taking to the repair shop.  But even getting lost has its advantages.  We meandered through numerous neighborhoods.    We met and talked with some delightful and kind people and as always made some new friends.  As we were wandering through one of the less affluent neighborhoods, we passed a small roadside stand and were engulfed in a delicious aroma.  It made us do a U turn as we were weak with hunger. (Dramatic Music Playing).   The sign outside the stand proclaimed “ORIGINAL Jamaican Jerk Chicken”.   We stepped up to the ramshackle counter and ordered up a portion to share.    It is pretty obvious that they don’t get a lot of tourist foot traffic in the area we were in.   The owner looked us over, paused… and said to us: “You know dis be Jerk Chicken?”  We said yes we knew Jerk Chicken and YES that IS what we wanted.   Our mouths and eyes watered as we enjoyed this wonderfully spicy, cooked to perfection delicacy.   He then was kind enough to put us back on the right, albeit not often traveled, trail back to the Marina where we started from.   The route he gave us took us through a Forest Preserve/ Dove Sanctuary.   We made our way along a dirt road that wound through the hills and down to the bay where our adventure had begun.    It was a lovely but brisk walk, Mike’s normal pace, as the mosquitoes are out in force right now, being the rainy season. (Note to self….always pack insect repellent for future short walks).   It was a welcome relief to climb back aboard Mighty Mouse and soak our dogs over the side of the boat as we made our way back to DD.

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Carriacou

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June 30 – July 2nd

There is supposed to be a bit of weather sweeping across these southern Islands bringing some good gusts of wind and Thunderstorms.   We sailed on south to Carriacou which is part of Grenada.  We checked in at Hillsborough and were given a 3 month Visa from Immigration and 1 month from Customs.   There is a monthly fee for boats staying in Grenada of $50.00/mo.  It used to be a yearly fee.  My how times change.    After taking care of our Inbound Paperwork we walked around the town of Hillsborough.   We came upon a small museum run by the daughter of the famous Island Artist Canute Caliste.   Clemencia was happy to take us throughout this small museum and show us the artifacts it contained as well as many of the tools and implements used in years past here on the Island.   There is also a wonderful tribute to her father who was a musician and a famous painter of Island Life.   We spent the better part of an hour in the delightful company of Clemencia and were privileged to get to hear from her personal accounts of growing up on the Island as well as some of the colorful history of this beautiful place.   We then sailed around the point to Tyrell Bay where we stayed for a couple of days until this little front passed through.    We had a few Thunderstorms,  mostly at night and did have a good gusts of 27 knots of wind come through the harbor that caused a little commotion with a couple of boats as they swung a little too close on their anchor lines.    Our anchor is dug in well and we haven’t moved.    We have free WiFi in this harbor and it is a good connection…..thus catch up time with the Blog and with telephone calls to friends and family.   I’m missing them all greatly right now as there is a big gathering for both my Parents and Aunt and Uncle’s 50th Wedding Anniversary.  Friends and Family that I haven’t seen in years will be in attendance.    It is time’s like these when the sacrifices we make to live this lifestyle become greatly amplified.   We did get to hear our first steel pan band of the trip here on Carriacou.    It is sometimes difficult to attend evening events as the local music and night life doesn’t usually get started until well after 9:00pm.   Guess I still haven’t gotten into the rhythm of taking siesta during the heat of the day so that I can stay awake for the fun!  We stayed for 3 songs and then headed back to the boat to sleep.  Sorry, as you can see, I kinda got lax on the photo taking while we were here.   Here is a good shot of a local floating Bar that was put to frequent use by many of the cruisers while we were here.

Union Island

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June 30th

We stopped overnight at Union Island where we will check out of St. Vincent  & Grenadines.  The town there was very quiet as this is the off season.    We anchored behind the Reef that protects part of Clifton Harbor and enjoyed a quiet evening.   There was a nice area with a number of fruit & vegetable stalls all painted in bright colors.  We picked up another Pineapple…..which has become a staple, and a mango.   We are looking forward to seeing all that Grenada and it’s out Islands hold.   We are also looking forward to a reduction in the number of boat boys and vendors that seem to want to swarm the boat even before we anchor.    The mass of Boat Boys, as they call the vendors and guides, began in Dominica, and seemed to increase in number in St. Lucia, and St. Vincent.   We don’t mind them stopping as they are just trying to earn a living but it does get tiresome telling them “No Thank You” every hour or so.   Much of what they sell also is more expensive than if we were to purchase the same items in town.    We have given business to a couple of them but they always pressure us to buy more…..we have to remain adamant in regards to the quantity of anything we want to buy and make sure we have exact change as they all insist they do not have change.    Oh I did make it through my first day as net controller……Live from the Tobago Cays…..It’s Daaaancing Dollllllphin bringing you the Coconut Telegraph Cruisers Net….!   Really thought it wasn’t so bad and David and Trudie from S/V Persephone even checked in from Bequia to lend their moral support to my efforts.

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Mayreau & Tobago Keys

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June 28th -29th

We sailed down to Mayreau bypassing Canouan and stopped at Salt Whistle Bay for the night.  It is a small palm lined bay with a lovely stretch of white sand beach.   There is a resort on this bay but it is very low profile and doesn’t detract from the beauty of this place.   We however were not the only ones enjoying this small bay and the distance between boats was a little tight.    We did manage to get a couple of swims in but had been warned not to leave the boat unattended as there had been a recent rash of thefts from yachts.   We took turns swimming and exploring around the rocks and reef.   I saw a new reef fish that I had not seen before,  a Spotted Drum.     A charter boat was next to us with a large group aboard and after dinner that evening they had invited some local musicians……..I use the term loosely, back to the boat to entertain them.   It was mostly a lot of off key shouting and beating of drums, but with the wine flowing and the smell of Ganja in the air… the revelers seemed to enjoy themselves.      As the local musicians beat their drums and shouted “Show Me Your En-Er-Gy,  I followed their instructions, and had just enough energy to reach up and close the hatch above the bed and turn on the fan so I could fall asleep.    Guess I’m getting old.    Michael stayed up a bit longer and said I didn’t miss anything.   He said, “they tried to do a Bob Marley cover and butchered it.”      We left the anchorage early and hopped over to the other side of Mayreau to the Tobago Cays.    The water here and in Mayreau is a beautiful shade of turquoise reminiscent of our time in the Bahamas.   The Cays are a marine park surrounded by a shallow horseshoe reef.  The entire area is protected and no fishing is allowed.    Snorkeling there was really a trip as most of it is in less than 5 ft of water.   It is like swimming in an Aquarium.    The marine life are not as fearful of people here in the park and even those that would normally be quite elusive were out in the open.    We got to see many different reef fish as well as spotted eagle rays, stingrays, turtles, eels, and sea snakes.    We did a morning swim and an afternoon swim.    After our afternoon swim I had climbed back on the boat and was rinsing off with fresh water,   Mike was still in the water at the back of the boat with his Mask on and watched a 7ft Reef Shark cruise by the bow of the boat.  I asked him if he needed to get out of the water NOW?  He said that the shark had come and gone and held no interest in us.   There were many people still enjoying their day of snorkeling, happy in their oblivion.  We decided it wasn’t our place to ruin their Disneyland perception of safety and security.  Ignorance is bliss…..but I still couldn’t help myself from humming the theme from Jaws!  Da-Dum……Da-Dum…….Da-Dum, Da-Dum, Da-Dum………Da-Dum, Da-Dum, Da-Dum, Da-Dum……!

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