Month: September 2010

Hanging on by a Thread

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Store Bay Storm Cont’

For us, it was a sleepless night of being tossed about in the swells.   At around 2:00 am, we had to move the Might Mouse(our dingy) from it’s usual place beside DD and tie her off behind as the swells were trying to toss her up over the side of the lifelines.   This was the first time I have felt queasy at anchor.    Our Friends on S/V Faith had left Trinidad on a return trip to Tobago and were also caught off guard by this storm.  They had been tossed about on the open ocean for a few hours but made it into the bay around midnight, at the height of the commotion and grabbed a mooring to ride out the remainder of the storm.    We received a call from Mike on S/V Faith in the morning.   He wondered if we were interested in finding a local to guide us through the reef into the only hurricane hole on the Island.    We told him yes we were definitely interested.   Faith was unable to launch their dingy as the swells were too big still to maneuver their dingy motor into place.   Michael and Mighty Mouse braved the swells and picked up Mike to take him to shore to find us a guide.    He found one in a matter of a half hour.   Ellis one of the local Dive Guides said he would be happy to lead whoever was interested through the Buccoo Reef and into the Bon Accord Lagoon.   Faith put out the word that we had a guide scheduled for 2:00pm to lead us in and 4 boats responded with interest.   Obviously we were not the only ones who had had enough of this tumultuous bay.      Just before our scheduled departure, S/V Faith contacted us again and said they were having engine starter problems and would not be able to go.    Hearing this we were worried for them.   S/V Rebel, who was now being battered against the rocks of the jetty after breaking free from her mooring, also did not have a working engine to allow them to take evasive action to escape their tragic circumstances.      The three remaining boats began making their way out to the rendezvous point where we would meet Ellis.    While in route,  we got a call from Gordon on S/V Calmos 3.   His hydraulics were failing and he would not be able to raise his centerboard to allow him through the shallows into the lagoon and had to turn back.    We were down to 2 boats.   Us and a French speaking couple aboard a large Catamaran called Bird.   Rob from S/V Quatico was able to communicate with them,  the offer of being led into the lagoon in his broken French and their broken English.    But as we rounded the last buoy and tentatively began following Ellis’ Dive boat into the narrow channel through the reef,  they must have looked at their GPS and decided it was just too risky whereas they too turned back.   So here we were just Ellis and us.   Our Charts showed that we were heading into shallow waters of as little as 2ft depth but we were traveling in at high tide and we trusted Ellis’s local knowledge of the Reef.    We watched as he would periodically drop a weighted string over the side of his boat to double check depths as we moved through the narrow uncharted channel.     Moving into the protection of the reef the swell was minimal and the motoring was much easier.   We held our breath as we shadowed Ellis’ dive boat matching his track.  When we were safely over the shallows and into what matched our charts as 8ft of water we let ourselves breathe again.   We had watched our depth sounder as we crossed the charted shallows and never found ourselves in anything less than 6.5 ft.   We thanked Ellis profusely and invited him aboard but he declined our offer with a smile and a wave and said he had to return to take care of some other things that day.    As we motored slowly into this reef and mangrove protected lagoon, we could see the tops of the trees still swaying from the storms fury but water inside this lagoon was calm with only the ripples from our anchoring to disturb its glassy surface.   It was such a relief to know that DD was safe and protected.   We called our friends back in Store Bay to report that we had arrived safely and they promised to look out for s/v Faith in the event they found themselves facing s/v Rebel’s fate.     In the days following the storm our friend Dave on s/v Mistral reported to us that he had dived on our mooring in Store Bay to find that 2 of the 3 strands of Rope that secured it to the sand screw, were worn through and we were only being held by the remaining single strand.  We were very lucky!   The moorings have been placed so that boats will not anchor near or over the reef but they are not being maintained and as in poor Rebels case could give way at any time.   Word to anyone taking these moorings…….Do not trust them, dive them if you can.

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Store Bay Storm

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Sept 8-10th,2010

We had picked up a mooring upon our arrival in Store Bay and had been enjoying a number of days of calm weather and smooth seas in our anchorage.   After a few day apart from the other 3 boats,  they had joined us in Store Bay and we were enjoying a reunion at Bagos Bar.   We had been keeping a close eye on the weather for the last few days as we were trying to decide when to move over to Trinidad.    We looked to the horizon and saw an unexpected large wall of ominous dark clouds to the south of the Island moving quickly in our direction.   Nothing we had seen on any of the weather sites we visit regularly was predicting anything more than a few showers but this definitely did not look good.    We visited for a few more minutes and then headed back to our boats to make sure all was battened down.   The winds began to blow.   We quickly brought in the laundry we had drying on the lifelines just as the first of the squalls hit.    We were all on moorings and so felt relatively secure as the storm began to cause some large swells in our anchorage.   This false sense of security was to prove disastrous for a number of boats.    As the night wore on, the seas and swells turned ugly and began coming in from the southwest where there was no protection from the open ocean.    Dancing Dolphin was soon hobby horsing over 3 – 4 foot swells on her mooring.    We were tossed about throughout the night and with the continued squalls intensifying did not get much sleep.    The first light of morning illuminated the carnage caused by this freak storm.    In the grey light we could make out 2 sunken glass bottom boats, still attached to their moorings, but this was not the worst of it.    A small sloop by the name of Rebel was on the jetty in front of the resort and was being bashed against the rocks by the unrelenting swells.    The mooring they were tied to, still attached to their boat, was also up on the rocks.   An Anchor had also put out, along with being tied to the mooring, but it too had failed under the confused and erratic seas coming into this small bay.   Her engine was non functional.     We were later to learn of the harrowing night of its occupants.    John and Katie had been living aboard and had recently opened a small business called Store Bay Marine Services that provided a Laundry, Internet, and other services to the Yachting Community of Tobago.   They had only a minute and a half from the time the boat broke free to when she hit the rocks.   Katie was thrown overboard and washed over the jetty and was hauled into their dingy by John, they made it to shore with only the clothes they were wearing and nothing else.   They had actually been planning to haul the boat in the next few days to repair the engine and get Rebel back in working order.   It was a horrific scene.   As the storm continued its rage through the morning, we watched helplessly.    A terrible cracking and crunching could be heard as Rebel lost the battle and eventually split down the center of her beam breaking in two.   The mast too snapped and fell across the jetty as she sank ever deeper.    In situations such as this there is really nothing that anyone can do as the wind and swells prevented any boats from coming to her rescue.   It was heart wrenching to watch but we were grateful to hear that John and Katie had escaped serious injury.    When the storms fury finally abated, the looting began.   A number of John and Katie’s friends tried in vain to dissuade those few desperate individuals who scoured the rocks picking up bits and pieces but to no avail.   Friends began taking up collections of food and clothing for the couple who have taken up residence in their small storefront.    We offered to try and free dive to see what we could salvage for them but were informed that they along with some of their friends would be scuba diving on the wreck to try and salvage as much of her hardware as they could along with any personal effects they can find, if any.    The Glass bottom boats fared a bit better.   A couple of days after the storm,  the owners were able to use floats to raise them enough to pump out the water and then tow them around the point where they will be repaired and put back into the fleet.

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Buccoo Reef

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We have enjoyed a number of snorkeling expeditions over the beautiful Buccoo Reef,  It is the 3rd largest reef in the Caribbean.    Glass bottom boats frequent the area bringing tourists to see its wonders.    It looks relatively healthy with numerous different types of coral and an abundance of brightly colored fish.   Michael’s foot has healed enough to allow him to swim again.   It had been really frustrating for him not to be able to spend time in the water in order to keep cool.   On one expedition along with our friend Dave from s/v Mistral we tied the dingy to us and drifted over the reef exploring a wide area.    We found a large school of Glassy Sweepers, a copper colored schooling fish normally found in caves.  Beautiful and delicate butterfly fish, bright green parrot fish, along with many other of our favorites.   Dave had brought his underwater camera and so we took a few pics of our snorkel.    Just as we were becoming prunes we found ourselves in 20 ft of water and when I looked below me I could see something moving fluidly but it looked too thick and dense to be a coral.   I dove down to find myself face to face with a 6 foot Olive Green Morey Eel.   He was as big around as my thigh and I surfaced to tell Mike and Dave about him.   We tried to get a few shots but he was a bit too deep for Dave’s Camera.   Eels normally can be found with their heads sticking out of holes and their mouths rhythmically opening and closing, showing off their sharp teeth.    Although he or she appeared very docile when approached, its menacing appearance encouraged us to keep our distance.

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Double Trouble

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We needed to find some reliable WiFi so we headed over to Store Bay.   Tobago and especially the Store bay area are popular placed for the folks from Trini to come for a vacation.     There are some grand public beaches and resorts catering to the vacationers.    We took walks around the area and got our first taste of a local delicacy called a Double.  It is a delectable bit of fry bread stuffed with a curried chick pea and vegetable mix and a spicy tamarind sauce.    We picked up one of these along with what is commonly called a pie, similar in texture with a slightly sweeter flavor.   Both are fantastic.   The roadside stand was on the way to the grocery store and we found ourselves stopping again on the way back to place a second order.    We spoke with the young entrepreneur about her schedule for making these wonderful breakfast treats.   It is a labor intensive process and she is up at midnight beginning her preparations for the following day’s sales.   We also have a good idea of why they are called Doubles.  Perhaps it is because they could easily adopt the Lay’s chip slogan of “No one can eat just one” or maybe it’s because if you eat them daily for a while and you will double your size in just a few weeks.   Either way we will be returning to place another order in the very near future.

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Goat Racing in Surf City

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The bay here at Mt Irvine has an amazing break.   We were able to enjoy watching the exploits of both local and visiting surfers enjoying the 6 footers right from the boat.   The waves wrap around the point and break as they come into the reef.    Not a place for the inexperienced.   Those brave enough to catch these waves were treated to some great rides.  Mike took Mighty Mouse and his camera out to catch some of the action to share with you.   Our group of four boats took our dingies around the southern point and over to the town of Buccoo Reef.    We pulled alongside the jetty and proceeded to tie off and lock the dink, whereas I promptly dropped our lock into the water.    I fortunately, had on my swim suit under my clothes, so over the side I went to retrieve the lock.   So much for arriving gracefully.    My mother used to refer to me in situations such as these as “Her daughter, Grace”   Michael has taken this and run with it in his own fashion and just refers to me on such occasions as “Miss Kelly”.    After a fresh water shower from the spigot on the dock,  we walked around town and admired a fancy new facility in its final stage of construction.   It’s façade was quite ornate and it’s grounds manicured.  It was obvious that no expense was spared for this amazing project……It must house something of great importance and social significance……Whatever could it be?    As the pungent smell from the far side this lovely building reached our noses we were able to decipher the purpose of this grand structure.  No, it wasn’t a government building,  it was the Goat Racing Stadium…….What Else!  There were no races that day but by the looks of this place, it is a popular event.    We meandered around this small town and as we watched the storm clouds gathering, our group ran for shelter.  (It did not much matter to me at this point as I was still drying out from my lock retrieval swim.)   We enjoyed the company of good friends as we sipped our beers and waited for the squall to pass.

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Birthday Rain

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Sept. 2nd, 2010

It is pouring down rain.  This can only mean one thing for the Gillich’s,  It’s a special occasion.  That’s right,  Wedding Day, Anniversaries, Birthdays…..all are continually blessed from above.   Today is Sept. 2nd, my Birthday.   We awoke to a downpour and it has continued off and on all morning and just for some added excitement the boat decided to drag anchor.   We had moved from Great Courland Bay down to Mt. Irvine Bay to try and escape the swells.   It is a little better here but still pretty rolly.  We found ourselves snuggling a little too close to S/V Asseance and so after breakfast we reanchored.   The swells, combined with the tides and light winds have had the boat turning nearly 360 degrees on anchor and so we have set a second hook just to be safe.   The grey clouds that surround us rumble their intentions along with their light shows.   We are watching the continued formation of a line of what looks to be a very active hurricane season.  So far we have monitored the formation and progress of Bonnie, Colin, Danielle, Earl, Fiona, and now Gaston.   There is another forming off the coast of Africa as I type this.  With so much unsettled weather  I can only assume we are in store for many more rainy holidays or special occasions.   But in true cruiser fashion, Michael conspired to make my birthday memorable with a party aboard DD.   Mark & Max(ine) from s/v Blue Beyond,  Don & Heather from s/v Asseance, and Rob & Cathy from s/v Quatico all arrived with arms full of tasty dishes.   Cathy had even baked me a wonderful chocolate Birthday cake.     It was a lovely evening filled with the gifts of good friends and laughter.   Thanks go out to all of you for making my rainy birthday so wonderful.

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Bay Hopping

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Aug 26 – Aug 31

After spending a number of days in Pirates Bay, we went back in to customs and immigration to request a cruising permit to Bay Hop down to Chagaramus, Trinidad.   We only had to deal with Dave at immigration as the fellow who had given us such a hard time at customs was not in.   He telephoned him and stamped our cruising permit by proxy.   This will allow us to take our time before arriving in Trinidad.  We traveled to Anse Bateaux and spent a number of days exploring the reef around Little Tobago and Goat Islands where we found a number of small rock lobster,  tasty!,  We also walked the trails above the Blue Water Inn looking for Birds.   Don and Heather from s/v Asseance had walked this same remote road the day before.  They were met by a black dog and then heard someone calling for help.   They came across a elderly local man who was lying beside the road.  He lives in a shack on the next bay and was trying to reach the Inn to call his nephew for help but was too weak to make it.   Don and Heather checked to make sure he wasn’t injured and then made him comfortable and walked back to the Inn to get help.  His nephew came for him and took him to the clinic.   He was home the next day and we stopped at his shack on our walk, he was feeling much better and asked us to tell Don and Heather, thank you.   As we had explained before, our provisions were a little scant especially for fresh fruits and veggies.   We were fortunate to have a visit to the bay by Andy who has lived in Speyside for 45 years.  He yelled out to s/v Quatico who was anchored closest to the Inn that he had He brought a large bag filled with mangos, limes, avocados, papaya and lemons for sale.   Quatico relayed the in nd After a few days in Anse Bateaux we all had a lovely sail around to Great Courland Bay near Plymouth, Tobago.     On the way we were treated to the company of dolphins riding our bows on 4 separate occasions.    The other boats we were traveling with did not have them come near them but could see them around our boat.   Dancing Dolphin, lived up to her name once again.  They crisscrossed and played in front of the bows and between the hulls and were a delight to watch.   The last few days we have explored the town of Plymouth and been entertained by shrewd and modified fishing techniques employed by the local pelicans.  They have had to add spinning while swallowing their catch.  The laughing gulls will actually attempt to land on their heads when they come up with a bill of fry and peck at them, waiting for them to open their beaks to swallow, thus the spinning modification.     Mike and I went for a walk the other day and stopped off at Turtle Beach Resort.   I had my swimsuit on under my clothes and enjoyed the luxury of immersing myself in their fresh water pool.   It was warm but it felt really great to sip a cold beer and relax in their lounge chairs under the shade of an umbrella and air dry without feeling salt encrusted.  Michael has not been able to swim for the last few days as he has a deep gouge on his right heel from one of the protruding metal lock snaps that hold part of the cockpit enclosure we rarely use.   I have insisted we take the precaution of not introducing any bacteria that may be lurking in the bay as there are numerous small polluted streams and rivers that empty into it.  It has been hard on him to not have an avenue to cool off other than the solar shower which is usually warm to hot water.    It is healing slowly.   We have been very protective and fortunately it shows no sign of infection.  The last couple of days we have felt the effects of Earl and Fiona.  The swells have gotten bigger and are coming from the North which makes for uncomfortable sleeping.    As bad as we have it…..we really feel for our friends aboard the monohulls as they rock and roll much worse than we do.    We really cannot complain as our thoughts and prayers are with those people who are in the paths of Earl and Fiona.   We have monitored their trials and tribulations via blog posts made with their cell phones and hope they all remain safe.

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