Author: bearcruzer

Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park

Jan 3rd – 5^th

We left Normans Pond and sailed south approx 13 miles down to Warderick Wells.  The weather has been very fickle on one hand and helpful on the other.  The northern cold fronts continue to give us good winds to sail but also blow quite hard at times and cause us to seek shelter to avoid being tossed around.   They have also brought cooler temps and make it difficult to talk ourselves into climbing into bathing suits to snorkel.   We caught and released a barracuda on the way down which was fun to reel in.   Warderick Wells is located in Exuma Land and Sea Park, a protected area that has been set up to create a place where fish and other wildlife can have a safe haven to replenish their populations.   The palette of blues and turquoise colors of the waters around Warderick Wells are incredible.    There is a narrow channel of deep water where the park has set up moorings for vessels visiting the park.  Because of the incoming storms the moorings filled up quickly.   We arrived on Sunday and after a hike around some of the islands trails, we were delighted to see a Pam and Graham Coffee of s/v Hot Latte-tudes and Sue and Paul of s/v Not a Clue.  They were part of the New Years Eve celebration at Normans Cay.   We all got together along with some new friends David and Trudy of s/v Persephone and had a great Happy Hour on the beach getting to know each other better.   We were joined by a rather pushy Thrasher that helped himself to our snacks and then some Hutia a native mammal that looks like a large brown guinea pig.     Pam and Graham are on Year 3 of cruising, and are heading to Cat Cay and other outlying islands.  They are also participating in a volunteer program that carries school supplies to the outer islands.  VERY COOL.   Paul, also and electrician and his wife Sue are enjoying the Bahamas for the winter.     David and Trudy we were delighted to discover have a similar story to ours,  rented the house, sold most of their belongings, packed their memories in a small storage area, and are off to sail around the Caribbean until the money runs out or they get tired of it.   No real plan as to where or when, same as us.   The next northern storm rolled through with cold winds on Monday and many of us were boat bound and so took advantage to catch up on e-mail and blogs.   Mike and I did take a brief hike up to Boo Boo Hill where numerous cruisers have left tokens to the ghosts of a schooner that was lost off of the island many moons ago.    We will return tomorrow to add our token to the pile to keep the spirits happy and on our side.  We also stopped by the ranger station and fed the bananaquits on our way back to the dingy.    On Tuesday morning, the winds had subsided a little and so Mike and I contacted David and Trudy and agreed to meet them on the beach to hike down to the ruins of a settlement left from the 1700’s.  We hiked through the island scrub forest and saw curly tailed lizards and Hutia.   Our little hike turned into 5 hours and culminated in our placing of our token with the others on Boo Boo Hill.   We made tentative plans with our new friends to meet up again for dinner but the winds increased again in the afternoon and since one of us would have to travel by dingy for the get together, we decided it would be best to postpone dinner to another night somewhere further down island on our trip.   Although the winds were not in our favor that evening they did  provided a fellow cruiser with the opportunity to entertain us with his amazing kite boarding abilities across the anchorage and around our boat and over our dingy at sunset.    Mike got some great shots with his new camera.   Mike and I will head out to Staniel Cay tomorrow morning and continue to work our way down to Georgetown where we will meet up with Crystals Mom and Dad on Jan 21^st.

Jan 1^st & 2^nd, 2010

The winds blew and the rain fell during the night but the morning dawned bright and beautiful.  It was still a little windy but nothing too bad, especially in the pond.   We took the dingy out to the reef and spent the morning hunting.   Mike found and speared his 1^st lobster of the trip.   Since we had been out so late the night before we spent the remainder of the day reading, resting, and then taking a walk in the afternoon.    Mike scared a small mammal on our hike but, I did not get a good look at it.  I will try to find out what mammals are on these islands.   Mike thinks it was probably a rat.    We had a great Surf and Turf dinner that evening.       The next morning we got out our bicycles and dingied over to Kingsley’s house again and rode the bikes down to MacDuffs.  We took the computer as they have the only internet access on the Island. (Unfortunately it was not working that day).    MacDuffs is located right next to the local Airstrip.   Mike suggested we ride to the end but halfway down we noticed a plane coming into land and had to move off to the side to get out of his way.   So much for Bahamian Airport Security, I kept waiting for a loudspeaker to blast, “Security is at a level Orange, please report any suspicious behavior or bicycles on the runway to Airport personnel immediately”     We hiked up to where the Columbian Drug Lords house used to be and left our name along with many other cruisers inscribed on what remains of the walls.   We had lunch at MacDuffs and exchanged a couple of books at their book exchange.  We also ran into Kingsley and his family again as they were preparing to fly back to their main home.  We got to thank them again and give them one of our cards to keep in touch, we hope to hear from them soon.   We rode back to the pond.  The tide was low again upon our return trip so Charlie and Rosie were called on again to take us to deeper water.    We are looking over the charts and will move south tomorrow to Exuma Park at Warderick Wells.  We won’t be doing any hunting there as it is a land and sea reserve but there should be some great snorkeling if the weather holds.   There is some great information at http://www.exumapark.info

Dec 31, 2009 – Jan 1, 2010

We cleaned up and took the dingy over to Kingsley’s house at 7:00pm.  There was no one at the house and initially we thought we might have gotten the description wrong.   We waited until almost 7:30 and then we began walking down the road. We ran into another gentleman who confirmed, we did have the right house, but Kingsley was at his in-laws house since he was renovating his.  He assured us he would be by soon as he needed to turn off all the lights.  Kingsley and his Wife, their children, His Sister and Brother-in-law and their children came barreling down the road and began apologizing profusely for being late.  We told them they had nothing to apologize for especially with that many people to get ready for the evening.   We hopped into the back of his truck along with a couple of the kids and headed up the road on what felt like Mr. Toads wild ride.  The roads are narrow and only partially paved in some areas, traveling in the dark on this unlit island road, after moving so slowly on the boat for so many days, it felt like we were traveling at amazing speed.   The food was terrific and the company even better.  We enjoyed a multitude of delicious island specialties and had a wonderful time meeting other cruisers and chatting with Locals and Cruisers alike.  We brought along a bottle of Champagne to toast the new year and shared it with our new friends.   2010 was rung in with Fireworks on the beach.  Kingsley and his family dropped us off at his house.   It was low tide and so we towed the dingy out across the shallows and rode back to DD under a beautiful full moon.  Mike kept his promise of a wonderful New Years.   A great time was had by all and even though we left along with our host family shortly after midnight, were heard tell of the party continuing into the early hours and of many of the party goers enjoying a skinny dip before retiring back to their boats and bungalows.

Dec 31, 2009

We consulted the charts and tide tables.  We weighed anchor at 7:30am and made our way against a strong tidal current powering through the 4-5 ft surf at the entrance to the cut and out into the channel.  We turned North toward the entrance to Norman’s Pond.   As we entered we visually scoured the entrance and surrounding area for 2 sets of steaks that were supposed to line up to show were the deepest part of the channel was.  We found one set but were having difficulty seeing the other set.  We traveled a little too wide of the channel and nearly ran aground. We finally spotted the second set of steaks and powered our way back into the channel and on into the Pond where it was calm.   We anchored and dropped our dingy into the water and decided we would go explore a  back route that was supposedly for dingies that ran from the pond to where we were first anchored without having to head out into the surf.    We thought we thought we would make our way over to the local hangout on Normans Cay called MacDuffs to see what they had planned for the evening.   Mike had promised me a fun New Years Eve since we spent most of Christmas crossing the Gulf Stream in rough seas.   We made our way along the dingy channel only to find that it was not deep enough even for dingies at low tide.  On our trek we began referring to each other as Charlie and Rosie as we had to play the parts of Humphrey Bogart and Katherine Hepburn in the African Queen.  We towed and drug the dingy across some of the shallower areas and sandbars.  We finally made our way around the point to where MacDuffs was located and found they were having a New Years Eve Buffet.   We made reservations(by giving them our boat name)  and then asked them if there was a way to get there by land as we did not want to make that dingy ride at night, (low tide was just after midnight and we didn’t think Charlie or Rosie would be in any condition to repeat our dingy trek) Kingsley, a local, who was sitting with us at the bar said he was coming back to MacDuffs this evening for the festivities.  He was renovating his house on the pond and would be happy to pick us up and give us a ride to MacDuffs.  He described to us which house was his and we agreed to meet him at 7:00pm.  Charlie and Rosie headed back across the sandbars and spent the afternoon resting up for the evening’s festivities.

Dec 30th

A Bright New Day.  We left Nassau with a Floatilla of about 10 other boats all leaving Nassau for various ports.   We caught NE winds at about 17-20kts and motorsailed 37 miles to Norman’s Cay.   The seas were spirited at 5-7 ft.  DD performed well again and we blew by a couple of other boats that left before us and were headed for the same location.   Mike also caught his first fish on the way to Norman’s.  Things are looking up.  We arrived at Norman’s and anchored near a wreck of an old plane on the S side of the Island.  It remains from the 1980’swhen the Columbians were running drugs and entertaining the Bahamian officials to keep their operation running smoothly.  Part of the plane was exposed above the water and Mike told me he windsurfed around the tail (which had since collapsed) last time he was here.
The waters were beautiful in various shades of turquoise blue.  We passed by what Mike referred to as Corona Island, a small sandbank with a single palm tree.    The current was strong but we set 2 anchors and settled in for the evening.   Mike had read about Norman’s pond a protected anchorage that he thought we should be able to access from the East if we enter at high tide.   We will try to make our way into the pond tomorrow as there is a strong cold front approaching on Friday evening and Saturday that may present winds at 25-35 kts, Rainstorms and seas up to 12 ft.

Dec 29^th, 2009

Mike has been through the manual twice and has tested everything he can.  He’s befuddled, and anyone who knows Mike, knows that’s hard to do.   We took the dingy over to a Nassau Yacht Haven, where I was able to do the laundry at their Laundromat for about the same price as it would have cost me in the states (an unexpected surprise).   Mike searched out someone who could test and possibly rebuild the old alternator.   He hiked around the streets of Nassau and was directed to the Bay Street Garage.   He told the guys there he needed an alternator bench tested.   They called in their local guy, Jack, who specialized in alternators, he took the alternator and had Mike follow him out the back door of the garage and up to the second floor where he tested it and told Mike that he had a bad regulator.  He told him to come back at 2:00pm and to ask for him specifically.   I finished the laundry and Mike and I took the dingy over to the Green Parrot where I could check e-mail and access WiFi while he went to see how Jack was fairing with the alternator.   I made myself comfortable at the Green Parrot and worked on the blog.   Mike returned from the garage and flopped into a chair looking disheartened.  “He is still looking for parts” he said.  I have to go back at 4:00pm.   We kept our fingers crossed.  Mike returned to the garage at 3:30pm.  Jack told him he was early and he was still working on putting it back together (a good comment).   Mike also took the spare alternator to Jack for him to test.  It turned out that both alternators were bad.   When Mike returned he had a repaired alternator in his pack.   We went back out to the boat and Mike installed the repaired alternator.  We will keep the other alternator and try to find a new regulator online for that one to keep as a spare.    We fired up the engine and brought the RPM’s up and were delighted to see that we were finally charging the batteries with the engine again.    We decided we would leave in the morning for Norman’s Cay to spend the New Year.   We walked the streets of Nassau one last time to pick up some additional fresh fruit and bread for provisions.

Dec 27^th & 28th

We arrived in Nassau Harbor on Sunday afternoon.  We refueled and ran up the yellow quarantine flag.  Upon arrival we also discovered that we were to remain at the fuel dock and customs and immigration would come to check us in.   Customs and immigration were contacted and 1 ½ hours later they arrived only to find we had not been given the correct forms and so we had to hurriedly fill them out for the ladies.   We also found that the $150.00 check in fee only applies if you are less than 35ft.  We are 35ft and so were charged $300.00 to check in.  That’s not how it reads in the guide books.  I think it is all in how the immigration official is feeling that day.  Obviously, not having the forms at the ready, It being Sunday, and her having to break up a fight between her kids over the phone while she was waiting on us to complete the forms did not put her in the best of moods.   Oh Well, not much we can do.   We will have to catch a lot of lobster, conch and fish to make up to the extra money spent.   We are anchored with about 15 other boats (it seems many are Canadian) in an anchorage next to the Green Parrot, a local Restaurant and Bar.  It is also close to the part of town where we may find what we need to fix DD.  They have a dingy dock that they let the cruisers park at.  It was interesting waking up in a harbor and taking immediate notice of the change in morning sounds.  Cars, Radios, sounds of a city waking up, Non-seabirds, (even a rooster crowing).   Mike spent this morning replacing the alternator with the spare and although the light comes on now, It does not go off after a brief time, indicating there is still a problem and the batteries are still not being charged by the engine.   We finally gave up working on it for the day and took the dingy to shore and walked around to get the lay of the land.  There was not much happening as it is the Monday after Boxing Day and a major holiday on the Island.  (They take their holidays seriously around here) We found laundry facilities, which I will take advantage of very soon.  (There has not been much sun and without enough power to make water, we are conserving that also)  We walked under the bridge and found the local produce market and the conch, and fish shacks that sell the local fair.  We then went across the harbor and toured Atlantis Resort and Casino.   We saw many Lily white or lobster red families packed around numerous man-made pools and a private stretch of beach.   It was very Disneyland/water park/Casino in feel and although very opulent, nothing was complimentary including water.    Beers were $7.50.  Food, like Disneyland was extremely high priced.   It was interesting to walk through but I have seen all I want to and am ready for a more real adventure.   We stopped into an Ice Cream parlor near Atlantis but at $4.00 per scoop we opted not to indulge.    We made our way back to DD made ourselves a cocktail and had a nice dinner.  Mike’s had his nose in the manual this evening and will try to troubleshoot the power issue again in the morning.

Dec 26^th

We left North Cat Cay and made our way across the Great Bahama Bank and pulled another 12 hour day.   The sunset coming across the Banks was beautiful.  The water is various shades of turquoise and crystal clear.   We anchored at Chub Cay at around 7:00pm.   We spent the night but did not leave the boat to check in at Chub.  Dancing Dolphin is expressing her displeasure with us pushing her to get here by not charging our battery banks when the engine is running.   This leaves us with just our solar and wind for power.   To conserve what power we had left, (It has been cloudy for days) we prepared and ate dinner by candlelight and although romantic we can’t help but worry about having enough to keep our batteries happy and allow us the conveniences we have become accustomed to.   The solar and wind systems can keep up with a standard daily draw but cannot top off the batteries or keep them fully charged.  We need the extra power at times, especially if we want those little luxuries like communications or powering the water maker, etc.   We decided we will press on to Nassau as there is more in the way of repair facilities and access to parts.  The winds were in our favor and we made an easy 7 hour journey to Nassau.

Dec 25, 2009

We had been anchored in Angelfish Creek for 3 days watching the weather and waiting to cross to the Bahamas.   We had a window on Christmas day.  It was a small window but we thought if the weather does what they are predicting the winds should switch from the North to the E or SE and diminish somewhat and the seas should in turn also decrease enough to cross.   We set the alarm for Midnight.   I couldn’t sleep so I stayed awake till Mike got up at midnight to check the conditions of the weather.  The winds had switched to the East but had not diminished.  Mike and I decided to wait a few more hours to see if the winds would calm a little bit.  He told me to catch some sleep and he would wake me if a few hours.   At 2:30 am Christmas Day, we began what was to become one of my most memorable Christmases ever.    The winds had calmed to a gentle 17 kts from 20 and so we traversed the narrow channel from Angelfish Creek and made our way out into the Atlantic.   The waves had yet to decrease and once we left the shelter of the reef we were met with 5-7 ft seas.   We continued on, hoping that the weatherman’s predictions would somehow come to pass.   Unfortunately, when we reached the Gulf Stream the waves increased to 7-9 ft and were very confused in their presentation.  Mike asked me twice if I wanted him to turn back but I told him,” If he was OK than so was I.”  He told me later he was hoping I would just say, “Yes let’s turn around” No such luck.   We rodeo’d the 52 miles across to the Bahamas and arrived at 2:30pm on Christmas Day.  For several hours, Dancing Dolphin took quite a few of the larger waves over her bow but handled them well.    The waves did finally calm to 5-7 ft again just before we reached Gun Cay.   Exhausted but happy that the ordeal/Adventure was over we made our way through the cut and anchored behind North Cat Cay off the end of their Airstrip.  We were met by the official greeter at Cat Cay, a brown pelican who swam around the boat a couple of times before deciding we did not have much in the way of a fine Christmas dinner or bait to share with him.   We showered and I took some photos,  for my Dad, of Aircraft that flew over us just before landing at the small Airstrip.    We then opened a bottle of wine, toasted our crossing and opened our Christmas Gifts to each other.    Michael said that of the 5 crossings to or from the Bahamas that he has made.  This one was definitely the worst.   We both had suffered from mild seasickness during the crossing but neither allowed ourselves to succumb to it.  We made it through thanks to our wristbands and Mom’s candied ginger and keeping our eyes on the horizon.   We both went to bed shortly after sunset and except for Mike getting up to check the anchor when the wind shifted, (back to the North) we both slept for the next 12 hours.

Dec 24  10:30pm

Twas the night before Christmas and all through the boat, preparations were made to keep her afloat.   The children were visiting families and friends while Crystal and Michael envisioned warm trends.

We’ve studied the charts and the weather for days,  we’re determined to start on our sea gypsy ways.   So Mike in his Jacket and I donned mine too, weighed anchor that night hoping we’d make it through.

The window for crossing is ever so small but we must push on through or not go at all.   The North Winds are coming, the weather man gloomed, the window is closing and you’ll soon be marooned.  But the Windgen still humming, it’s supposed to slow soon, or at least that’s what the weather man said around noon.

The table top Christmas tree with its lights all aglow has been bagged for the night and is stowed down below.  Anything breakable, loose, or just light has all been tied down or is now packed up tight.

With a Thermos of coffee and plenty to eat, this night should be really a wonderful treat.  We’ve brought along extra this night as you know in case we see Santa before shouting Land Ho!

So out of safe harbor we left Christmas Eve, wondering “maybe we’re being just foolish to leave”.   Missing our family and friends gives us reason, to wish we could be by their side at this season.   It’s hard when our dreams at times take us away and we wish we could be in both places today.

But traveling out on this warm windy night, one can’t help but dream of those future delights.  Warm sands and water so clear and so blue, that you wonder if you’re looking at one sky or two.

Sailing between two heavens we go and we take you all with us in our hearts don’t you know!    So you’ll hear us exclaim as we sail out of sight.   Merry Christmas to all and to all,  “When’s your flight?”

Sunrise Dec 24th, 2009