After a great nights sleep and our wonderful encounter with Umberto we added the additional jugs of diesel to our tanks and motored on the additional 12 miles to Boqueron. We dropped anchor and jumped overboard to cool off and swim. The water was a chilly 87 degrees……Aaaaaahhhhh! We took Mighty Mouse over to the local dingy dock and took a walk around the town. An older local gentleman spoke to us in Spanish and when we asked him in Espanol to speak slower he immediately switched to English and told us it would begin raining soon. When we asked when he said about 15 minutes. He was right on the money and so we stood in the doorway of a local bar as the storm passed. We continued our walk down the beach and around the town and covered about 4 miles. It was a great walk (in flip flops, of course). As we walked down the dingy dock we met Julio. He was raised here in Puerto Rico but also lives in New Orleans. He just recently retired as an engineer and was back here visiting family and trying to figure out where he wants to spend part of the year. He told us about a great local place to eat and to try the Mufungo, a local dish made with mashed plantains and filled with seafood. He said he would be going there with his sister, brother-in-law, & girlfriend. We decided we would take his recommendation and headed over to D’Tapas Restaurante. The Mufungo was delicious. We saw Julio and he called us over to his table to meet his girlfriend , his family and his friend Edmundo. We were invited to sit with them and immediately had a beer in our hand. We enjoyed a number of drinks and some terrific conversation. Julio’s girlfriend Margarita is retired Navy and had some great stories and a wonderful laugh. Julio’s sister Maritza and her Husband Armando own an Oyster Bar about 45 minutes north of Boqueron in Isabela. By the end of the evening we had been extended an invitation to visit them in Isabela to hear them sing. They are not only the proprietors but also the live entertainment on Friday nights. They also offered to put us up in their beachside bungalow. Again….what wonderful hospitality! We exchanged contact information and if we stay around through next week we may take them up on their offer.
Mayaguez, Puerto Rico
We dropped Mighty Mouse into the water and geared up to head into Mayaguez to clear customs. We followed the instructions in our Guidebook that instructed us to clear customs at the government dock. The government dock wanted to charge us $25.00 to tie our dingy up there so we opted to beach her about ½ mile away and walk to the office. When we arrived we were told that this was a branch of the customs office but since we needed to clear through immigration as well we would need to go to the office about a mile down the road to do both. This is also listed in our guidebook as the customs office. Oh well, we needed to be out walking anyway after being on the boat for 44 hours. My only problem now is my inability to wear any other shoes besides flip flops. I get blisters from all my other shoes now. I was still nursing a blister from walking around Puerto Plata and the Waterfalls and now have a couple of new ones from my Chacos. The bottoms of my feet however have become very tough, although it is not recommended to go without something on your feet especially in third world countries or anywhere with an open sewer system. It took about an hour to clear customs and immigration as we found out a decal is now required to be able to clear back into any US territory via the automated telephone system for US Citizens arriving by private vessel. We will purchase one online when we have internet again. After clearing into Puerto Rico we stopped for a couple of beers at a roadside stand near the waterfront before making our way back to Mighty Mouse, that we had locked to a tree on the beach. We stopped at a small local grocery store on the way and found the prices to be very reasonable so we purchased a beef tenderloin, pork chops, chicken to restock the freezer and a few additional provisions were we low on and carried them back to our Dink. We also found a bakery and picked up a hot fresh loaf of French bread. The people here have been very welcoming and most are bilingual. We were asked by the man in the bakery if we were the people from the boats that arrived in the harbor that morning? We have only been in the country a few hours and we are already infamous. Or perhaps we just stick out like a bunch of sore thumbs being the only gringos in this part of the neighborhood. We spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing and enjoyed a wonderful steak dinner on the boat. The next morning I rode with Mike and David back to the beach as both boats needed additional fuel before continuing on to Boqueron. I dropped them on the beach and stayed with the Dingy. We had seen a place to purchase diesel about ¼ mile from the beach and so the boys took off empty diesel jugs in hand. I did not envy them the walk back, in the rapidly increasing heat and humidity. They did not make it but about 50 steps from the beach when a local gentleman by the name of Umberto stopped his car and told them to get in. He said he would take them to the gas station. When Mike mentioned that he was heading to the one we had seen the day before Umberto said he knew someone there. That station was for refueling large trucks and only sold in large quantities but after a mas rapido exchange in espanol between Umberto and his friend, he was able to talk them into selling Mike and David enough to fill their jugs and then gave them a ride back to the beach. He showed them where he lived and explained that if they needed anything else just to knock on his door. Talk about instant hospitality what a great welcome. Thanks Umberto!
Puerto Rico here we come
Well we had planned on staying in the Domincan Republic for up to 3 weeks but as always when an opportunity for good travel presents itself we must take advantage. We have a great weather window for making the normally difficult crossing of the infamous Mona Passage from the Dominican Republic to Puerto Rico. The seas and winds are predicted to be fairly minimal and being that it will take us almost 48 hours straight to get there I welcome a calm passage. We will be buddy boating with David and Trudy on SV Persephone as we travel south for as long as it works out that our plans coincide. We spent Sunday doing Laundry and purchasing a few more fresh provisions for the journey. Mike filled the extra 2 diesel jugs in the event we will need the additional fuel to make the crossing. Our engine burns approx 1 gallon per hour and we have a 50 gallon tank but of course that we can burn more or less depending on the sea and wind conditions. We planned on obtaining our despacho papers on Sunday and leaving first thing in the morning on Monday but of course, best laid plans…..etc. It turns out Immigration is closed on Sundays and we had to check out with them before we could get a despacho from the commandante. Monday morning we had an American breakfast special in town and the Upper Deck Restaurante and then walked back down to Immigration. The officer we were told was not expected until 9:30am that day. We finally completed our paperwork for a dispacho to Samana, DR in the event we would need to stop along the way due to unexpected weather or any boat problems. Having the dispacho issued for Samana, DR would allow us to stop there without having to pay too much in additional fees to reenter the country. After paying our dispatch fees of $20.00 and having a couple of soldiers accompany us back out to our boats for inspection we were able to leave around 11:00am. It was nice having Persephone as a buddy boat, we would check periodically even when we lost sight of each other. Mike was a little stressed when we ran into some current in light winds on a close reach and occasionally on the nose and it looked like we might not have enough fuel to make the crossing even with the extra 10 gallons. We opted to change course slightly and check in at Mayaguez which shaved an additional 12 hours off our crossing. It was a long but uneventful passage which was really appreciated by me after the last couple of rough overnight passages. We ended up sailing and motor-sailing through comfortable seas and gentle swells, I was able to read on my watch the entire time (Books Read: A Thousand Splendid Suns & The Help). After 44 hours we dropped anchor in Mayaguez Harbor, Puerto Rico around 7:00am.
Las Cascadas – The Waterfalls
Saturday morning dawned bright and beautiful, so we picked up David and Trudie on SV Persephone and headed out for the 27 Charcos or puddles, also known as las cascadas. We walked downtown and hired a taxi for 300 pesos to drive us to Imbert. We got off and just as we paid the driver a bus was heading our way along the route we needed. I flagged the pusher who was hanging out of the open bus door and he yelled at the driver to stop, which he did rather rapidly to the surprise of those already on the bus. The pusher waved to us to hurry and so we ran to the bus and climbed aboard asking in our broken Spanish if the bus went by the Cascadas. The bus driver and the pusher did not seem to understand but another gentleman who was riding the bus said that it did in fact go by the Waterfalls and that the driver would stop and let us off there. We expressed our gratitude and paid the pusher 60 pesos each for the ride. The gentleman who had assisted us in explaining our destination gave us the heads up and let us know when our stop was coming up. We were let off at the side of the road next to a sign in espanol with an arrow that directed us to take a dirt road to the waterfalls. We had no idea how far it was but that was part of the adventure. The road led into a hilly area where we assumed that the waterfalls would be. We walked about a 1/4 mile and found the well marked entrance to the park. There are 3 prices for up to 7 waterfalls, 8-12, and 13-27. We purchased our tour tickets for 12 of the 27 waterfalls (310 pesos each) also plan on a customary tip of 100 pesos per person for your hardworking guides. There are changing rooms for men and women where we put on our shortie wetsuits we had brought. We were able to leave our backpacks with our extra clothes with the ranger at the ticket counter. We were then outfitted with helmets and lifejackets and met our guides Kelvin and Franklin who would assist us in our journey up the waterfalls…..yes up! We hiked about a ½ mile to falls and then proceeded with the assistance of Kelvin and Franklin to climb using ladders, ropes, and the brute strength of these young men to haul ourselves up twelve of these beautiful cascades. The water was pretty clear even after the rains over the last few days and waterfalls were running strong. I couldn’t wipe the smile off my face during the entire experience. I kept turning around to Mike and saying, how the boys would love this. The trip down was the easy part so long as heights do not bother you. We were given the option of jumping into the pools or sliding down the falls and did both. Mike even did a front flip into the final pool. We made our way back to the park entrance and tipped Kelvin and Franklin for their hard work dragging our butts up those falls. We changed into our clothes and toasted our adventure over a couple of beers at the Bar there at the Park entrance. We walked back out to the main road and waited for about 20 minutes before a bus came along and took us back into Imbert. We were planning of having Pizza but the Pizza place in Imbert was closed. Just as well, as we found a local restaurant and had some great Dominican food, Roast Chicken, Braised Pork, Rice, Beans, Salad and of course, a couple more beers. We stuffed ourselves for less than 500 pesos for all of us. It was a great ending to a wonderful day. We caught a taxi back to Imbert and dropped David and Trudie back at their boat. They were real troopers, albeit, a bit sore, the next day after following Mike and Crystal on yet another crazy adventure.
Exploring Luperon
I had better get to writing these memories before they fade….. Luperon had a number of cooler days so we entertained ourselves by exploring locally by dingy and on foot. We spent some time walking around town and picking up some local fare and sampling the delicacies of the local Bakery. The people are beautiful and the children are happy and well looked after. We cruised around in Mighty Mouse and tied up to the dock at the Puerto Blanco Yacht Club. One of the yachts that was docked there was an Allied Mistress. This is the type of boat Mike had previously used to cruise the Caribbean. Ed and Brenda, the boats new owners, purchased the boat sight unseen and were attempting to make her ready to travel back to the US in just under 45 days. As we proceeded up to the Yacht club we were met by 3 young puppies. They were really cute so we sat with them a while and got our pet fix. We were kept busy by participating in a few of the local get togethers around Luperon. Thursday we had dinner at the Yacht Club and played a round of Triva with many of the ExPats and other Yachties who have made Luperon their home or extended stay. Friday night is Karaoke at Puerto Blanco Marina. After our nightmarish experience with karaoke on our Trip to Thailand a few years ago, we normally would avoid the place at all costs. However, we were told by our friend Sean (Shaggy), that it was the happening night in Luperon and he and Camilla were closing Shaggys for the evening to attend. So we found ourselves donning our raingear and braving the elements to enjoy an evening of conversation and music that varied from Disco to Meringue to Oldies. The DJ seemed to be a local Icon and the crowd was a mix of locals, expats, and yachties. Everyone seemed to have a great time and for the most part I did not have to break out the earplugs.
Shaggy’s, Luperon, DR
We have chosen Shaggy’s Bar www.barstoolsailor.com as our favorite Luperon hangout. The Cervezas Grandes are always cold and at the ready and the food is excellent and reasonably priced. It is referred to by its many loyal patrons as Luperons Livingroom. After you have been there a few times you may be able to serve yourself which is just what you would expect if you were at home. Shaggy, whose real name is Sean, is the owner, bartender, cook, etc. He caters to the Cruising & Tourist community and he and David have become good friends in the short time David and Trudy have been here. (I encourage you all to read David’s Blog of Shaggy’s for an even more elaborate and colorful description of our experiences there) Shaggy’s is named after the Scooby Doo Character and Sean looks a lot like Shaggy, don’t you think? The bar is even painted yellow, blue, and green just like the Mystery Mobile. His food is great and his beer prices reasonable. Mike has been able to barter with him for food and drink in exchange for a quart of bottom paint that we had onboard. His beautiful girlfriend Camilla is an accomplished Musician. One evening in particular after returning from our day in Puerto Plata, we stopped to have a nightcap…..we ended up closing the bar and got to hear not only Camilla play her guitar and sing also were treated to a performance by Trudie, who is a trained Opera Singer. She stood and sang Ave Maria accapella. She has an incredible voice that was not only appreciated by all of us but also appealed to Shaggy’s dog Willow who at was asleep under the table. When Trudie began singing Willow got up, walked across the bar and sat in front of her and joined her with a long howling bark. Trudie finished her song and we all cheered. She told us she thought that might happen. She said that many times when she sings both birds and animals of all kinds join in.
A Day in Puerto Plata
April 13th, 2010
David, Trudy, Michael & I took a day and traveled by gua gua (public taxi) to Puerto Plata about an hours drive away. Costs for transportation for the 4 of us came to about $24.00 round trip. The countryside outside of the towns is just beautiful. At one point during our drive we passed a large group of people walking along both sides of the road, all wearing black pants or skirts and white shirts. I was able to ask and understand from the driver that there was a funeral and the immediate family, were the ones in black and white. We also got to listen to some great Dominican Music along the way, so we were introduced to the music of Rubby Perez. We were dropped off at the city center and were immediately met by a tourist host. These kind gentlemen are provided by the office of tourism and are available to assist tourists in seeing the sights in and around Puerto Plata. Rafael was our guide for the 1st hour or so of our visit. He took us into the beautiful San Felipe Cathedral and then walked with us out to the San Felipe Fort that overlooks the Town and Harbor. We walked around the fort and took some pictures, we then stopped for a cold drink. We tipped Rafael and thanked him for his assistance but told him we wanted to explore on our own. He looked very disappointed but left us in peace.
We wandered around a bit more and found the post office where David was able to get his taxes postmarked and mailed(we of course had to take a photo of that monumental occasion as well). Since we paid Uncle Sam we figured we would continue with giving money to another Sam here in Puerto Plata. We walked over to Sam’s Bar & Grill in the Hotel Castilla, just off of the main square where we enjoyed an early dinner.
We wandered back to the main square and took a taxi out to the Teleferco, a cable car that takes visitors up to the top of the mountain at 7500ft. We purchased our tickets and boarded the Cable car that carried us up into the clouds at the top of the mountain. During our ascent we enjoyed the spectacular views over the town and port. At the very top we were delighted to discover a scaled down statue of Jesus, similar to the one that stands above Rio de Jainero that we could not see previously because of the clouds covering the mountain top. It was surrounded by a beautiful botanical garden. We walked around for a bit enjoying the gardens and the cool air at that altitude along with the clouds that drifted atop the mountain. We took numerous photos and I, being the graceful person that I am, went to pose for a picture atop a wall and promptly lost my balance and fell off the opposite side. The steep slope on that side was fortunately covered in dense foliage that I grabbed onto and so I only fell about 4 feet down the 75 ft slope. I was able to climb back over the wall with only my ego bruised. Michael had rushed to my rescue but seeing that I was uninjured could only repeat over and over how he wished he had taken a photo of me on my back with my eyes wide and a death grip on the shrubbery. We rode the cable car through the clouds back down the mountain and headed back to Luperon after a terrific and almost exciting day exploring Puerto Plata!
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Navigating the System
We completed our check in the next day and paid a $10.00 customs fee, and a $10.00 fee for a Tourist Card. We also had to check in with the Commandante. We made our way across a narrow plank bridge and up to his office where we were met by soldiers in fatigues carrying M-16 without clips or bullets or maybe they are like Barney Fife and are only allowed one bullet. We waited about 20 minutes for the Commandante to arrive. He was very kind but was difficult to understand as he spoke very quickly and my Spanish is still very rough. I apologized profusely and he joked that he and I were born the same year and how did Mike come to have such a young wife? He welcomed us to Luperon and told us we will not have to pay him a $20.00 fee until we check out of Luperon. So all in all around $100 in fees to Visit the DR barring any additional fees as we travel along the coast. We have spent a few days walking around the town and learning where things are. It is important to pay close attention when making purchases. If the prices are not marked there you may be quoted gringo prices which although are not as high as in the Turks and Caicos….are at least double local prices. Prices for most items and food stuffs are very inexpensive. I have been studying my Spanish and have attempted to converse briefly with some of the local people. They have all been very friendly and welcoming and appreciate any attempts to communicate in Spanish with them. We have picked up a strong Wifi signal in the harbor and also have access to free WiFi at either Shaggy’s Bar or Captain Steve’s Place in town. We will try to get back online soon.
Fishermen repairing Nets
Arrival in Luperon, DR
April 11th, 2010
We followed Van Sant’s recommendation and left Big Sand Cay for Luperon at 7:00pm in order to arrive at Sunrise the next day. We had winds on the beam out of the east at 18-22 kts steady which DD performs well in. The seas were between 1.5 – 2 meters out of the E-NE which made for a little bit of a rough passage. There was a bit of excitement on this moonless night when we ran into some small squalls that backwinded the sails at about 30kts and spun the boat around. We started the engine and got back on course and made it to the entrance to the harbor just after sunrise. Persephone called us on the VHF just as we were entering and so was able to return the favor of having someone call us by name as we entered a new country just as we had done for them upon entering the T & C. The harbor was calm and beautiful in the morning light. A protected and quiet bay surrounded by verdant lush vegetation and snowy egrets flying from their roosts across the still water. Bird sounds filled the air and mingled with the occasional morning rooster crowing. We picked up a mooring at $2.00 per day, we figured it would be less hassle than trying to clean the anchor chain after it spent a week in this harbor where barnacles have been known to begin growing on anything that is in these waters for more than a few days. We then raised the yellow Q flag and after listening to the Sunday Cruisers Net and being treated to a spectacular Rainbow over the anchorage, we settled down for a cat nap. Around midmorning we lowered Mighty Mouse into the water and motored over to the government dock and checked in with immigration (Fee $63.00 US)which allowed us to walk around town. The other offices that we needed to check in with were closed and so we will clear with them on Monday. David and Trudy showed us around town and gave us the skinny on where to find goods and services. They told us that because it was a Sunday the streets were especially quiet. Even so they were filled with people sitting outside their homes visiting with their neighbors. Dogs, goats, chickens and children were running around. Scooters and Motorcycles were zipping up and down the street and Dominican Music filled the air. When I commented that it did not seem very quiet David and Trudy said, “Just wait till you see it when it is busy. As we were to find out very soon they were right.
Entering Puerto Blanco, Luperon
Snowy Egrets
Rainbow over Puerto Blanco, Luperon
Leaving the T&C, At Last
April 10, 2010
With Repairs completed and after a farewell dinner at Byron & Polly’s, we made arrangements to meet up with the Gringos down Island and then said our final goodbyes and exchanged contact information with Domingo and Arlin, who have been our shipyard neighbors for this last month. The Caicos Shipyard placed Dancing Dolphin back in the water on Friday Afternoon, precisely one month to the day that they hauled her. It felt really great to be floating again even tied to the fuel dock that evening while we waited for the next morning to make our escape. The mosquitoes and the no-see-ums had one last evening feasting on us before we left Provo in the Turks and Caicos Islands for the Dominican Republic. The boat handled well and seems to be sailing much better with both keels intact. The winds were blowing a steady 16-18 kts out of the east on a close reach. The swells as we left the banks were not as large as we expected and so we made good time over to Big Sand Cay where we spent about an 1 1/2 hours relaxing. We went swimming in the clear water and I walked the beach where I found a pretty piece of Pink Sea Glass. We will leave tonight at 7:00pm to make the night crossing to Luperon in the DR.
Domingo Trujillo & Arlin Baez
Shipyard Sunset
Living the Dream 